Conditioning Agents for Hair and Skin

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Formulating Conditioning Products 287 properties, functional benefits, and cost parameters. Where possible, individual competitive (or internal) products should be cited as reference standards (or controls). It is also imperative that other important but less obvious information and requirements be included. At a minimum, the profile should include the following considerations: Composition and design of packaging (both container and closure). Desired advertising/marketing claims. These may be formula or ingredient related (e.g., "pH balanced," "98% biodegradable," or "contains vitamins, ... protein,... sea kelp") or performance oriented (e.g., "leaves hair cleaner longer," "moisturizes better than the leading brand"). "Performance demonstrations," required for advertising or sales materials. Perhaps most important, the method and measure by which successful formulation is to be determined (i.e., criteria for successful completion) should also be clearly described in the product profile. This is of paramount importance to efficient project execution. An example of a product profile designed for hair care products is provided in Exhibit 2. The product profile is typically provided as a formal document prepared with multidisciplinary input (certainly including that of R&D) and ratified at appropriate levels of management. (Ideally, ratification should be documented at all levels of the organization that will eventually be given the opportunity to evaluate, or comment upon, formula performance or esthetic properties.) While the product profile is intended to establish a complete and definitive plan, at times it is prudent to adopt major change during its execution. Such occasions should be prompted by response to market and/or technological changes, not individual fancy or lack of forethought. Clearly, the capable and enlightened formulator will demonstrate both the ability to execute a well-thought-out plan and the flexibility to rapidly accept and respond to its modification. At times this process may require the chemist to set aside the burning desire to demonstrate technical virtuosity in favor of compliance with what may appear to be a mundane product description. Consolation for such magnanimous compromise can easily be found in the recognition that extremely difficult technical challenges are frequently cloaked in what appear to be extremely pedestrian assignments. In other words, it may be more difficult to formulate an easily manufacturable, inexpensive shampoo for daily use than its luxuriously high-lathering "department store" counterpart. B. Technical Evaluation and Review Armed with a well-crafted product profile, the formulator can truly begin the formulation process. Presuming that the targeted formulation can be achieved
288 Westman Exhibit 2 New Product Description—Hair Products Project Identification i: General Product Categorv: Form Prepared by: 1. AESTHETICS: A. Appearance ij 1. Comparal tive Standard{s): 2. Color/Hue: 3. Intensity: 4. Clarity: Pale Liqht Clear Translucent 5. Visual Effects: Pearllzed 6. Other B. Consistency r. 1. Compara! tive Standard (s): Date: Moderate Dark Other 2. Description of Flow Characteristics (choose one): a. b. c. d. e. Water-lil
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MARCEL Conditioning Agents for Hair
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About the Series The Cosmetic Scien
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Preface Biological surfaces, such a
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Contents About the Series Hi Prefac
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Contributors Eric S. Abrutyn Senior
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1 Introduction to Conditioning Agen
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Introduction 3 subsequent damage. W
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Introduction 5 an important indicat
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Introduction 7 but elasticity measu
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Introduction 9 the skin or hair is
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Introduction 11 for testing the eff
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2 Biology of the Hair and Skin Zoe
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Biology of the Hair and Skin 15 A.
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Biology of the Hair and Skin 17 col
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Biology of the Hair and Skin 19 der
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Biology of the Hair and Skin 21 whi
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Biology of the Hair and Skin 23 Fig
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Biology of the Hair and Skin 25 fee
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Biology of the Hair and Skin 27 the
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Biology of the Hair and Skin 29 pos
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Biology of the Hair and Skin 31 23.
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Biology of the Hair and Skin 33 65.
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3 The Role of Biological Lipids in
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Biological Lipids and Skin Conditio
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4 Petrolatum: Conditioning Through
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Petrolatum: Conditioning Through Oc
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Petrolatum: Conditioning Throughi O
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Petrolatum: Conditioning Tiirougii
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5 Humectants in Personal Care Formu
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Humectants In Personal Care Formula
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Humectants in Personal Care Formula
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6 Emollient Esters and Oils John Ca
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Emollient Esters and Oils 113 Figur
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Emollient Esters and Oils 115 Stear
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Emollient Esters and Oils 117 2. An
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Emollient Esters and Oils 119 B. La
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Emollient Esters and Oils 121 Table
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Emollient Esters and Oils 123 A bri
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Emollient Esters and oils 125 Table
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Emollient Esters and Oils 129 prope
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Emollient Esters and Oils 133 heavy
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Emollient Esters and oils 135 Table
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Emollient Esters and Oils 137 SUGGE
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7 Proteins for Conditioning Hair an
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Proteins for Conditioning Hair and
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Proteins for Conditioning IHair and
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Methionine Phenylalanine Proline Se
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Serine Threonine Tryptophan Tyrosin
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Proteins for Conditioning iHair and
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Proteins for Conditioning l-lair an
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8 Organo-Modified Siloxane Polymers
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Organo-Modlfled Slloxane Polymers 1
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Organo-Modified Siloxane Polymers 1
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Organo-Modifled Slloxane Polymers 1
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Organo-Modlfied Slloxane Polymers 1
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Organo-Modined Slloxane Potymert 17
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Organo-Modlfled Slloxane Polymers 1
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Organo-Modlfied Siloxane Polymers 1
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Organo-Modifled Siloxane Polymers 1
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Organo-Modifled Slloxane Polymers 1
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Organo-Modifled Siloxane Polymers 1
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Organo-Modified Slloxane Polymers 1
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Organo-Modified Siloxane Polymers 5
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9 Specialty Silicone Conditioning A
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Specialty Silicone Conditioning Age
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10 Cationic Surfactants and Quatern
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Catlonic Surfactants and Quaternary
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Cationic Surfactants and Quaternary
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Page 248 and 249: Cationic Surfactants and Quaternary
Page 250 and 251: Catlonlc Surfactants and Ouatamary
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14 Evaluating Performance Benefits
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Evaluating Conditioning Formulation
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Evaluating CofxlHkMiIng Fofmulation
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Evaluating Conditioning Fonnulatlon
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Figure 9 (A) The Zeiss DcrmaVision
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Index Acetyl cysteine, 160 Acid man
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Index 371 [Buildup] and polymers, 2
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Index 373 Cyclotrisiloxane, 172 C^s
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Index 375 Foam boosters, 154,183,21
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Index 377 Kligman, A., 164,300 Koll
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Index 379 Photographic spot meter,
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Index 381 Sebum composition of, 20
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Index 383 Tensile strength, 6,18,35
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Conditioning Agents for Hair and Skin

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