Conditioning Agents for Hair and Skin

Polymers as Conditioning Agents 275
rinses. The conditioning effect of ABILQUAT 3270 and ABILQUAT 3272
improves combability of wet and dry hair; electrostatic charge is reduced and
the hair becomes silky, shiny, and manageable. ABILQUAT 3272, which is of
higher molecular weight than ABILQUAT 3270, is more compatible with anionic
surfactants than the latter. Therefore, ABILQUAT 3272 is preferred for
use in shampoos, shower and bath preparations, and liquid soaps, whereas the
most important areas of application for ABILQUAT 3270 are conditioning
hair rinses. In skin cleansing preparations the interaction of ABILQUAT 3270
or ABILQUAT 3272 with skin proteins provides a refatting effect that imparts
a smooth and supple feel to cleansed skin.
1. Silicone Protein Copoiymers
Hydrolyzed wheat protein polysiloxane copolymer [CRODASONE W, Croda
(44)] retains some properties of both protein and silicone components, assuming
in part the film-forming and substantivity of a protein and the lubricity,
gloss, and spreadability of silicone. While the conditioning properties of proteins
can help improve the integrity of hair and skin, the esthetic qualities of
silicones help to enhance their appearance.
Phoenix Chemical (52) has developed a series of silicone-protein copolymers
[PECOSIL (53)]. The compounds contain (a) a silicone portion of the
molecule derived from a dimethicone copolyol, (b) an ionizable phosphate
group on the dimethicone copolyol, and (c) a protein portion. All are linked
in a covalent bond in one molecule. The presence of the phosphate group
makes these materials silicone phospholipids. They have a tendenq^ to form
bipolar sheets rather than micelles. The products reduce irritation and provide
a nonocclusive film on the hair and skin.
There are two classes of PECOSIL silicone proteins: one containing a phosphate
group in the portion of the molecule that links the silicone and protein
(PECOSIL SWP-83, SSP, SWPQ-40) and another that has no phosphate (PE­
COSIL SW-83, SWQ-40). All except SSP have a wheat protein souce. SSP is
derived from soya. The phosphate-containing materials have a tendency to act
as natural phospholipids, while the phosphate-free version acts more like quaternary
compounds (54).
V. NONCATIONIC POLYMERS
The bulk of this chapter has been devoted to negatively charged (cationic)
polymers. A number of high-molecular-weight neutral copolymers, as well as
natural polymers, exist whose main property is the fixation of hair by forming
clear films. They are also substantive to and condition hair. National Starch
and Chemical has been foremost in marketing these copolymers (36,55).