Conditioning Agents for Hair and Skin

270 Idson
Guar gum is a galactomannan with a p-l,3-linked mannan backbone to
which are attached a-D-galactopyranosyl residues as 1,6-linked single-unit side
chains. The cationic charge is placed on guar gum using the same chemistry as
for polyquatemium 10, that is, by hydroxypropylation, addition of epichlorohydrin,
followed by quaternization with a tertiary amine (20).
Guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (GHPTC), not unexpectedly, functions
in an identical way to polyquatemium 10, but it has been claimed to
confer better wet combability. It has been used in conditioning and body-building
shampoos. High cationic substitution confers substantivity to skin to provide
conditioning. Because GHPTC is substantive, a protective polymer film
remains on the skin.
N. Quaternized Lanolin (Quaternlum 33)
Quaternium 33 [LANOQUATS, Henkel (40)] is quaternized lanolin. These
products have many applications in cosmetics, particularly in the area of hair
care products (17). Their compatibility with anionic surfactants makes them
ideal shampoo systems, where their function is to deposit on the hair and combat
the effects of static electricity, thus helping to control flyaway and aid in
the ease of combing after shampooing (41).
The properties of these quaternaries also make them useful in hair conditioners
and rinses applied after shampooing. The toxicological properties of
lanolin acid quaternaries have been shown to be lower in magnitude than those
of other commonly used "quats," and their solubility characteristics allow
them to be incorporated in virtually any type of hair rinse/conditioner formulation
(42).
O. Quaternized CHITOSAN (Polyquatemium 29)
CHITOSAN is the deacetylation product of chitin which is a major component
of the exoskeletons of invertebrates. Combining CHITOSAN with pyrrolidone
carboxylic acid (PCA) forms a water-soluble substantive humectant whose CTFA
name is chitosan PCA and which forms polymeric films on the hair.
CHITOSAN that has been reacted with propylene glycol and quaternized
with epichlorohydrin has the INCI (3) name of polyquatemium 29. Compatible
with all types of surfactants and stable over the pH range from 2
through 12, polyquatemium 29 exhibits excellent hair fixative properties at
low active levels.
P. Quaternized Proteins
Proteins and polypeptides derived from various plant and animal sources are
common conditioning agents. Because of their similarity to the proteinaceous