Det medeltida prästerskapets civila dräkt – Anders Lindkvist
Det medeltida prästerskapets civila dräkt – Anders Lindkvist
Det medeltida prästerskapets civila dräkt – Anders Lindkvist
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Innehållsförteckning<br />
Inledning...............................................................................................................................................3<br />
Syfte och Frågeställningar....................................................................................................................3<br />
Avgränsningar.......................................................................................................................................3<br />
Metod....................................................................................................................................................4<br />
Källor och litteratur..............................................................................................................................5<br />
Testamenten som källa.....................................................................................................................8<br />
Bilder som källmaterial....................................................................................................................9<br />
Arkeologiska fynd som källor........................................................................................................10<br />
Dräkthistorisk bakgrund.....................................................................................................................11<br />
Materialen i testamentena..............................................................................................................11<br />
Dräktens uppbyggnad och material 1200-1400 ............................................................................12<br />
Mans<strong>dräkt</strong>ens uppbyggnad............................................................................................................13<br />
Undersökning av <strong>prästerskapets</strong> <strong>dräkt</strong> år 1218-1418.........................................................................14<br />
Undersökningens disposition.........................................................................................................14<br />
Underkläder...................................................................................................................................14<br />
Benbeklädnad.................................................................................................................................14<br />
Mellanplagg och överplagg ..........................................................................................................16<br />
Kjortel.......................................................................................................................................16<br />
Kjortlar med hätta.....................................................................................................................19<br />
Cotehardie.................................................................................................................................20<br />
Corseto......................................................................................................................................21<br />
Colobium ..................................................................................................................................21<br />
Stack..........................................................................................................................................21<br />
Tröja..........................................................................................................................................22<br />
Kordhumblæ .............................................................................................................................22<br />
Kylt............................................................................................................................................22<br />
Surcotte.....................................................................................................................................22<br />
Pellicum ...................................................................................................................................24<br />
Gardecorps................................................................................................................................25<br />
Tabard........................................................................................................................................25<br />
Ytterplagg .....................................................................................................................................26<br />
Mantel och kappa......................................................................................................................26<br />
Manteln i källorna.....................................................................................................................26<br />
Kappan i källorna......................................................................................................................26<br />
Skillnader mellan mantel och kappa.........................................................................................27<br />
Togam .......................................................................................................................................29<br />
Huvudbonader och bälten..............................................................................................................30<br />
Hätta..........................................................................................................................................30<br />
Almucium..................................................................................................................................31<br />
Bälten........................................................................................................................................32<br />
Den katolska kyrkans bestämmelser rörande prästers <strong>dräkt</strong>...............................................................34<br />
Kläderna i testamentena i förhållande till färg..........................................................................37<br />
Kläderna i testamentena i förhållande till skärning och tillbehör.............................................38<br />
Sammanfattande resultat....................................................................................................................41<br />
Framtida forskning.............................................................................................................................43<br />
Källor..................................................................................................................................................45<br />
Bilagor ...............................................................................................................................................50<br />
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