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Vikinger i uld og guld. Speciale. Forhistorisk Arkæologi, Københavns Universitet. Charlotte Rimstad, kandidatordningen 1998. 13. ENGLISH SUMMARY Textiles from Danish Viking Age graves are few and small and so far only their weaving technique, the direction of the spin and the density of the threads have been analysed. By analysing the stratigraphy of the textiles on tortoise brooches and other objects from the grave, the aim of this paper is to gain more knowledge about the clothes from which the textiles derive. Mainly tabby was found, but also fragments of 2/2 twill and other twills, as well as tablet weaves and other ornamental elements were discovered. On the tortoise brooches, fragments of a linen tabby underdress were found. It was smooth and probable had sleeves, and especially in the 10 th century the neck opening was fastened with a little, round brooch. Over the linen dress, the women wore a dress with shoulder straps that were attached to the tortoise brooches, either by woven loops or directly through the dress. Some of the women also wore pearls between the brooches and most of them carried their tools in a belt. Fragment of capes or jackets are very limited and these garments may not have been put in the grave. Information about the men’s clothes come from little textile fragments from metal artefacts, such as knives and buckles. Some of them derive from linen or woollen shirts that had long sleeves. Other fragments are from tunics, capes or jackets, but the fragments are too small to tell us about the exact garments. Fragments of trousers and leg windings are few, as is headgear. The Danish Viking Age textiles resemble both the textiles from the Swedish Birka graves as well as the textiles from the port, settlement and graves of Haithabu. However, more tabbies were found in the Danish graves than in Birka, and some of the details of the women’s dresses are different. The Birka textiles are also much more extravagant than the Danish textiles, though high status graves with silk, gold and silver threads have also been found in Denmark. Many of the textiles from Hedeby seem to have been working clothes and a lot of different kinds of garments have been discovered. It is a good reminder of all the garments missing in the Danish graves, and it is important to remember that the garments in the graves probably aren’t a direct reflection of the way living people wore their clothes. In the future, many more aspects can be investigated, especially if new find of textiles appear. In that case, it is very important to register the exact positions of the textiles in the graves, in order to be able to gain information about the clothes. 63
Vikinger i uld og guld. Speciale. Forhistorisk Arkæologi, Københavns Universitet. Charlotte Rimstad, kandidatordningen 1998. 14. Litteraturliste Albrethsen, S.E. et. al. 1979. §49 udgravninger 1969-79. Fortidsmindeforvaltningen, Fredningsstyrelsen. Almgren, B. 1966. Vikingen. Skrifola. København. Ambrosiani, K. 1981. Viking Age Combs, Comb Making and Comb Makers. Stockholm Studies in Archaeology 2. University of Stockholm. Stockholm. Andersen, E. 1937. Folkedragten i <strong>Danmark</strong> og dens Traditioner fra Oldtid og senere Tider. Nationalmuseets Arbejdsmark. Nationalmuseet, København. Side 75-79. Andersen, H.H. og Klindt-Jensen, O. 1970. Hesselbjerg. En gravplads fra vikingetid. KUML. Jysk Arkæologisk Selskab. Århus. Side 31-41. Andersen, S.W. 1977. Vikingerne i Lejre. Historisk årbog fra Roskilde amt. Historisk Samfund for Roskilde amt. Side 11-23. Baastrup, M. P. og Petersen, P.V. 2008. Smykkemode. SKALK 3. Højbjerg. Side 8- 11. Bau 1981. Seler og slæb i vikingetid. KUML. Jysk Arkæologisk Selskab. Århus. Side 13-47. Becker, G.B. 1886. Helgenskrinene i Sankt Knuds Kirke i Odense. Undersøgte 1833 og 1874. Aktstykker og Tegninger udgivne til Ottehundredeaars-Dagen efter Kong Knud den Helliges Død. Ministeriet for Kirke- og Undervisningsvæsenet. København. Bender Jørgensen, L. 1976. Textilfundene i Stengade. I: Skaarup et al. Stengade II. Langelands Museum. Rudkøbing. Side 200-216. 64
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