january-2012

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TRAVEL SWITZERLAND 32 Holland Herald CLOCKWISE FROM ABOVE Jacques Thurneysen steers a course across the Rhine; the Kunstmuseum courtyard; a gargoyle sneers at the hills “We are men of tradition,” beams Herr Stefan Schiesser, a fi ft hgeneration chocolatier at Confi serie Schiesser on the town’s heaving Marktplatz. His 149-year-old shop overlooks the rustic red façade of the Town Hall, which houses a bombastic statue of a scantily-clad Munatius Plancus, the man who allegedly founded Basel under Caesar’s rule. “I tried to introduce chilli chocolate once,” he continues, “but there was a mini revolt – the belief is that we have done a good job in the fi rst place, so why mess with that?” Th is may seem blinkered, but aft er a few days nibbling truffl es from the slew of confectioners that command the city’s fi n de siècle buildings, it is easy to see his point. Th e chocolate – much like everything, right down to the bottle green trams that run with the sort of effi ciency usually reserved for military operations – is of such high quality that it requires no embellishment. Inside his ornate, sweet-smelling shop, behind the shelves of intricately-latticed sweets that look like rows of tiny, hand-decorated suburban houses, sits 93-year-old Frau Hesser, reading the Basler Zeitung, the city’s local rag. She dunks a läckerli – a honey, hazelnut, orange peel and Kirsch biscuit into a rich, frothy hot chocolate with the kind of gusto usually reserved for an E-colour-fuelled toddler. Frau Hesser comes to Schiesser every day at 3.15pm, on the dot. She also knows fährimaa Jacques Th urneysen well. Small Basel may be, but its impressive roster of museums certainly puts it on the map. Rudolf Suter, a local tour guide, reckons there are 40 museums. In the centre, near the imposing Munster Tower in Grossbasel, there seems to be one every 200 metres. Whether it is bones at the Natural History Museum’s suitably-named
The Natural History Museum “ Basel may be small, but its impressive roster of museums have put it on the map ” A traditional hanami, or place for viewing cherry blossom
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