january-2012

TRAVEL BRAZIL
Ipanema
Beach
Tijuca National Park was once coff ee plantations, but
was replanted by slaves in 19th century and is now the world’s
biggest man-made forest. Nature was quick to reclaim these
forests, which are now home to a wonderful variety of birdlife,
monkeys (including the rare white tuft ed-ear marmoset),
ocelot, sloth, anteater, iguana and the raccoon-like coati.
Th e climb to Pico da Tijuca takes just half a day, but off ers
views across the skyline that will haunt you for a lifetime.
Below and to one side are the terraced fl anks of Santa Teresa
and seaward, the sparkling Rodrigo de Freitas lake and
Ipanema. Draped across the hilltops and lining the shaded
valleys are the still extensive forests of Rio.
“Th ere’s no big city in the world that off ers such wonderful
jungle-trekking,” says guide Raf Kiss. “From up here, you can
get a good idea of just how ‘wild’ Rio de Janeiro is even today.”
Saudade is one of the most purely Brazilian words you will
ever hear. It is the soul of the Brazilian instinct for romance,
and is oft en described as a painful, heartfelt longing or
homesickness. It is a word that is notoriously hard to translate.
Just stay in Rio long enough to fall completely in love with it…
aft er you leave, you will understand. v
56 Holland Herald
Rio fact fi le
N
Rio de Janeiro
GETTING THERE
KLM operates three direct
weekly fl ights to Rio
Internacional from Amsterdam
Airport Schiphol.
WHERE TO STAY
In Ipanema, Mango Tree
Hostel (mangotreehostel.com)
offers comfortable suites and
a welcoming atmosphere just
a block from Ipanema’s Posto
9 epicentre. The gardens are
pleasant communal areas for
breakfast and evening drinks.
In Santa Teresa, the immense
master suite in the sprawling
old hillside townhouse that
is Rio Hostel (riohostel.com)
has views of Santa Teresa,
Lapa and the towers of the
business centre. The poolside
Brazil
South
America
Atlantic Ocean
Rio Interncional
Airport
Ipanema Copacabana
Beach
Rio de Janeiro
bar on the roof is the place
to fi nd what might well be the
best tropical fruit caipirinhas
in all Rio.
WHAT TO DO
Capoeira master Wagner
Rocha Gonçalves teaches
either on the beach or
in his centre in Rocinha
favela. He can be contacted
through the Mango Tree
(mangotreehostel.com).
For trekking, Raf Kiss
(mirantes-mototravel.com)
specialises in motorcycle
tours but, for those who want
to take in the sights at an
infi nitely slower pace, he is a
knowledgeable and amusing
guide for treks through all the
great parks of Rio.
Additional photography: Corbis. Map: Allan Grotjohann