january-2012

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the gay section near Posto 8, and next to Copacabana Beach, you fi nd Posto 7, the surfi ng area. “Posto 10 is probably the most laid back area,” Tião laughs. “Th is is the lazy section.” Down on the sand, four quick-fi re volleyball games are underway, and a group of men are playing beach football. Th e cycle track behind me is thick with cyclists, skaters, skateboarders, joggers and speed-walkers. Tião smiles as he reads my thoughts. “Well, they do say that Ipanema’s the healthiest beach in the world...” he says. From sunrise to sunset, Ipanema is a permanent procession of sporty-looking bodies. At times, the promenade here could almost be a conveyor belt out of some utopian factory dedicated to the creation of the perfect body. Apart from people-watching, one of the most spectacular sports on Ipanema is futevolei (or foot-volley). It was created as a reaction to a law against soccer on the beach in the early 1960s; the players would use the ‘camoufl age’ of a volleyball court to avoid the police. Players compete in pairs, and the ball is kept in play using any part of the body apart from the hands and arms. On Ipanema, you can see both men and women exhibiting a level of skill that is rarely seen even across town in Rio’s historic Maracanã stadium. Of course, there are many who prefer simply to relax. Th ey rent parasols and buy provisions from barraqueiros, the (oft en elderly) ‘beach-boys’ who sell traditional Globo biscuits and refreshing maté tea. Men dressed in Arabic costumes shuffl e through the sand selling little triangles of meat-stuff ed esfi ha, similar to somosas. Fift y-three year old Januário sells other triangles: “Bikinis of all sizes,” he says, “right from minimangoes up to triple-handful.” His friend Antonio has spent half his life patrolling Ipanema’s iconic black-and-white pavements selling his cangas (sarongs). “So many people come here running and cycling…” he says, “but I have probably covered more miles of Ipanema than anyone alive.” Th ere is very little that happens on the beach that Antonio and Januário don’t know about. Th e waitresses in the beachside kiosks, serving caipirinha cocktails round-the-clock, call them the unoffi cial mayors of Ipanema. This picture-perfect patch is only eight blocks long, and is bordered on three sides by water: the sea, the lake and the adjoining river. On the fourth are the rocks that separate it from Copacabana. Ipanema might be part of a city that is seven million strong, but it’s also one of the most privileged villages in the world. 52 Holland Herald
“ This is almost certainly the only time I will ever kick a cage-fi ghting champ in the head ” CLOCKWISE, FROM BELOW Capoeira on the beach; surfing the Posto 7 strip; Rio’s muscle beach; Santa Teresa street art TRAVEL BRAZIL Holland Herald 53
Page 1 and 2: Holland Herald JANUARY 2012 YOUR CO
Page 3 and 4: Holland Herald JANUARY 2012 YOUR CO
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