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in still-life photography and sculptures made from found objects. “I left Th e Netherlands for London because it’s a huge creative hub, and when I arrived everybody pointed me towards Hackney Wick,” she says, tinkering with work that will be exhibited in Amsterdam later this year. “I remember my fi rst visit, seeing nothing but warehouses everywhere, but eventually I found the amazing places and people behind their walls. It’s great to have the encouragement of professional artists all around me.” From the pathway behind the nearby Stour Space, a not-for-profi t art gallery that houses the excellent Counter Cafe, you can begin to explore east London’s web of waterways. Th e Hertford Union Canal forms the southern border of Victoria Park, one of east London’s biggest green spaces and home to splendid statues, memorials and even a stone alcove from the original 32 Holland Herald TOP Columbia Road Flower Market RIGHT Brick Lane OPPOSITE PAGE Liverpool Street Station is a gateway to Europe’s financial capital, and its most creative neighbourhoods London Bridge. Th e park’s western edge runs alongside the Regent’s Canal, which stretches from the Th ames through to Little Venice in the north-west of the city. Th is complex network can be confusing, but a day-long excursion with the London Bicycle Tour Company puts things into focus. Th eir ‘Olympics’ tour starts at Waterloo, crosses the river at Tower Bridge, and pedals eastwards onto the Th ames Path in Wapping. A century ago this district was a slum rife with disease and overcrowding. Suff ering terrible bomb damage during the Second World War, it was largely derelict until 20 years ago. Its startling recovery is echoed right across the tour, from the skyscraper-studded Docklands — once a no-go zone — up to the glittering Olympic Park. But this gentrifi cation isn’t allconsuming and shades of old east London add charm and colour to the waterways. Luxury property developments rub shoulders with crumbling factories; clapped-out houseboats are docked beside mini yachts; spray painting and stencilling jostle for wallspace with banners advertising high-rise riverside offi ces. At the Shadwell Basin, the tour passes Cable Street, where in 1936 a march by the British Union of Fascists descended into violence. A plaque marks the spot where “the people of east London forced back the march of the Blackshirts.” Th ere’s a long, proud history of activism and radicalism in east London that can still be felt in the anarchist bookshops of Whitechapel, the street art of Shoreditch and the vegan cooperatives of Hackney. It’s the same tradition of nonconformism that makes the east’s nightlife among the most exciting in Europe. Central London may have the theatres and cinemas, and west London has the museums, but the east is where new ideas begin.
“ Hackney Wick may have more artists per capita than anywhere on earth ” TRAVEL LONDON Holland Herald 33
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