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TRAVEL ZAMBIA<br />

“Old crocs become more cunning to<br />

compensate for their age ”<br />

one, pull quickly to strike and reel him in slowly to tire him<br />

out. Th e biggest one I’ve ever caught? About 24 pounds. But<br />

whatever the weight, you have to be very careful when you<br />

remove the hook, they have big curved teeth.”<br />

Th e stripy-scaled Tiger is not the only fi sh in the Zambezi.<br />

For those who like monster-sized challenges, the terminally<br />

ugly Vundu catfi sh is a real catch. “Th ey can grow as big as a<br />

man,” grins Sammy. “You need a big net.”<br />

We don’t catch a thing. And a few hours later on a night<br />

safari, we don’t see the big cats we’d been hoping for. But<br />

that’s Africa. Not everything’s guaranteed. Except the<br />

accommodation. Whether you choose to camp on an island<br />

or check into a fi ve-star lodge, the experience is unforgettable.<br />

“During the rainy season we dismantle the camp and<br />

nature just takes over,” says the manager of Chongwe River<br />

Camp, Flossie Shawa. “Th en we come back, cut the high<br />

grass, take the camp out of storage and the wildlife trims<br />

the lawn.”<br />

Th e rustic ambience of Chongwe is pure Out of Africa<br />

luxury, but for true romance an expedition beneath the<br />

endless African night sky is an essential Zambian experience.<br />

After a day dodging hippos on the channels and<br />

sandbanks that criss-cross the Zambezi, we set up camp<br />

Holland Herald 61

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