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by Athena and Bill Steen - Cohabitat

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The second layer<br />

Optimally; the second earthen floor layer should be applied<br />

while the first layer is still damp, yet leather-hard. If the first layer<br />

dries out before applying the second layer, be sure to dampen it well<br />

before starting, <strong>and</strong> while working. If for any reason, the first layer<br />

showed any cracking, adjust the soil mixture <strong>and</strong> retest before applying<br />

the second layer<br />

The second layer of the earthen floor is applied in exactly the<br />

same manner as the first. Once the floor has hardened, but is still<br />

damp, it can be troweled, using a little water, to give a smooth, fine<br />

polish. A spray bottle works well to apply the water. Wiping the floor<br />

lightly with a wet sponge <strong>and</strong> troweling it will bring out the flecks of<br />

straw.<br />

Depending on the weather, the entire floor could dry in as short<br />

of time as a few days in drier climates or as much as several weeks in<br />

damper conditions. A fan could help speed up the drying process.<br />

AD traffic should be kept off the floor during this time.<br />

Method2<br />

This method produces a floor that is not as durable as<br />

Method /, but is easier to install.<br />

The technique<br />

It is possible to construct an earthen floor <strong>by</strong> tamping<br />

or ramming. It can also be done in multiple layers, but at greater<br />

thickness because it is done with a dry or slightly moistened<br />

mixture rather than one which is wet enough to trowel. The<br />

Initial layers of this floor need not be as finely screened as for<br />

Method 1. Soil passed through a 1/2 inch screen is more than<br />

satisfactory. Select a clay/s<strong>and</strong> mix as described earlier in the<br />

text. Prepared road base has also been used with good results.<br />

Each layer can be somewhere between 1.5 to 2 inches<br />

in depth with the total depth of the floor at 4 to 6 inches or<br />

more if conditions require it.<br />

Adding water<br />

The first layer can be applied dry <strong>and</strong> then moistened<br />

slightly with a mister on a hose or a watering can. The soil<br />

mixture should be wet enough that the clay can bind the<br />

ingredients together, but not so wet that it can't be walked<br />

upon without disturbing it. The mixture can also be lightly<br />

moistened before applying. Doing so helps ensure that the<br />

moisture is evenly distributed throughout the mix, but it is<br />

more laborious.<br />

Another option, which will help further stabilize the<br />

soil, is to add boiled linseed oil to the water at a rate of 4<br />

liters of boiled linseed oil, diluted with 2 liters of water for every<br />

100 liters of soil (<strong>by</strong> volume).<br />

Tamping<br />

The mixture can then be roughly<br />

leveled <strong>and</strong> then compacted with a plate<br />

compactor. H<strong>and</strong> tamping is clearly the<br />

least expensive, but more laborious.<br />

Simple tampers can be made from<br />

plywood with a h<strong>and</strong>le or metal plates<br />

welded to a piece of pipe. Mechanical<br />

plate compactors are commonly<br />

available through tool rental outlets.<br />

When using one, it is necessary to h<strong>and</strong>tamp<br />

the edges of the room where the<br />

floor meets the walls.

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