by Athena and Bill Steen - Cohabitat

We have included three different methods for installing earthenfloors,
lire steps which have been covered prior to this point are the same
for each method unless stated otherwise.
Method 1 is a troweledfloor that is both durable and beautiful, but
is the most labor intensive of the three methods. It is our choice for
areas that receive the most traffic and where an attractive floor is
desired
Method 2 is a tamped floor that is of lower quality than method 1,
but isfaster to install. It would be a good choicefor areas with less
traffic or where the finished look is not as important It wotild also
be a good choice when using an earthen floor as a base for tile,
carpeting, etc.
Method 3 is the easiest andfastest of the three methods, but the most
experimental and the one for which we have the least amount of data.
It is simply installed dry and moistened in place using psyllium seed
as a stabilizer. We have created some incredible samples using this
method, but consistent results will require more work and
experimentation.
Method 1
This version produces the most finely finished and durable earthen
floor that we have seen.
If the base for the floor has been properly prepared, the thickness
of the finished floor can be thin, anywhere from 1 to 2 inches.
Historically, earthen floors have often been treated like concrete pours
and have been installed at a thickness of 4 inches or more, but this
excessive thickness can make the floor much more susceptible to
cracking and substantially increase the drying time.
Typically, we have had good results with a 1" finished floor
layer, applied in two seperate 1/2" thick applications. It is conceivable
that it could also be done in one layer, although there would be more
shrinkage and cracking problems. Three layers might be necessary, if
problems have developed as the floor is being installed.
Getting ready to begin.
Before beginning, the height of the various floor layers need to
be marked on the walls of the room. For example, if two 1/2" layers
are being used, a mark 1/2" above the top of the sub-floor, along with
another at 1", need to be made. These marks can then be connected
by drawing level lines between them, or snapping a chalk line. A
water-tube level in combination with a Standard carpenter's level are
usually adequate for most rooms, however a transit could be helpful
for larger rooms.
Prepare your tested floor mixture, measuring the ingredients
carefully, so that each batch is consistent. Thoroughly dry mix. It is a
good idea to save and store some of this dry-mix for future repairs.
Just enough water should be added to make the mix workable. The
drier the mix, the less the floor will shrink and crack. Straw added to
the first layer will help control shrinkage. The base needs to be
thoroughly clean (a vacuum works well for this), and dampened before
applying the floor mixture.