by Athena and Bill Steen - Cohabitat

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Additional layers When this first layer is completed, it can be followed with other layer or layers. If the finished look of the floor is not so critical, this can be the final layer. More care can be taken to level the surface. Dragging a board across the surface to screed it as done with concrete is a good method Tamping will produce edges, but these can be smoothed or softened with a trowel and retamped to create a reasonably level surface If this is the final layer, it should be applied slightly higher than the intended height of the floor as tamping will compact the floor mixture approximately 20 to 30%. Final layer If the surface of the final layer is not smooth enough, it can be topped with a very thin troweled-on application of the same soil mixture, screened with 1/8* hardware cloth. It is applied in the same way that one would apply a finish plaster to a wall. Care should be taken to make sure that the previous layer is well moistened to ensure a good bond between the two. A hybrid version of Method 1 and 2 can also be used for the final layer. A1/2 inch layer of a clay/soil mix, as in Method 1, can be troweled on top of the tamped layers. Method 3 This is the fastest method of the three, but less finished with more texture than methods 1 and 2. It is also suitable for outdoor surfaces in dry climates. Soil Mixture This method uses psyllium seed as a stabilizer in combination with a sandy soil mix or another material that has a fair amount of aggregate. Psyllium acts like clay or cement, it coats small pieces of aggregate and triads them together, ft is often used with crushed granite for outdoor walkways. Ground psyllium seed (see resource section) is dry mixed at the rate of 1 lb. per 10 square feet to create a 2 inch thick floor. For a 3 inch thick floor, 1 lb. per 7 square feet is needed. A mortar mixer or concrete mixer is good for larger quantities. Application This mix is spread dry over the base layer that has been soaked with water. It is then leveled and compacted with a roller, as is typically used for landscaping. The soil and psyllium mix is then saturated with water by using a spray nozzle that has a mist option. Applying the water in a mist does not disturb the prepared surface of the floor. It is essential to moisten the soil mixture so that the full depth of the material receives water. After the surface water disappears, the surface can be further compacted with a roller. The top layer can be troweled lightly to help seal the surface of the floor and to produce a smooth surface. Too much pressure will tend to float the psyllium to the top and weaken the bottom layers. The surface can be misted or moistened slightly to facilitate the process. It is possible to apply the psyllium in a wet mix with a trowel, like in method 1, but it can be difficult to control the consistency of the soil psyllium mix. Which has a tendency to continue absorbing moisture and consequently continues becoming drier and changing in consistency. However, some experimentation may yield good results. Small samples that we have created using this method have yielded good results. Volume of soil needed for the finished floor layer At adepth of 1 inch, approximately 1 ton of soil mixture will be needed for every 200 square feet; for 2 inches, 1 ton per 200 square feet is needed; for 3 inches, 1 ton per 65 square feet.
Earthen floors can be divided with grids of wood, brick, concrete QT other materials If wishing to do this, it is important to remember that earthen doors are strongest to a monolithic form without any divisions Their weakest point is at the edges and when divided by other materials, the number of edges increases considerably. Dividing the floor into sections does make it easier to level Smaller tile-sized sections can also be made and then grouted with a different colored clay Stabilizing Earthen Floor Mixes Most soil mixes will make a good floor without additional stabilization. They can be added if additional hardness is required or if the soil mix doesn't produce enough binding and strength. Choice of stabilizers can vary depending upon available resources. An easy and inexpensive stabilizer that was sometimes used throughout the southwestern United States was wheat flour paste Wheat flour paste can be made from commonly available white flour mixed in the following manner Mix 1 cup of white wheat flour with I pint of water and add it to 2 cups of boiling water. Then cook at low heat until it becomes slightly translucent taking care that the mixture does not stick and burn Dilute this with 2 quarts of cold water and use it as the water to mix the soil ingredients. Another option is using casein powder which produces a natural glue. It is prepared by soaking 25 grams of casein powder and 8 grams of borax in enough water to form a putty. The putty can then be diluted with water to a consistency suitable for mixing the soil ingredients Auro (see resources) makes a powdered casein glue that could also be used Synthetic polymer based glues like Elmers or Concrete Bonder can be used at a ratio of 16 ounces to 22 shovels of mix. Surface Hardeners and Sealents To be effective, a good sealant needs to penetrate deeply into the earthen floor rather than form a skin or shell on the surface of the floor, as do acrylic sealants. The problem with skins, is that they create a thin, hard cap on top of a relatively soft material (the earthen floor). This cap or skin is then susceptible to damage and when it is broken, produces "pot holes" in the floor. Traditionally, the most successful sealents have included oils, animal urine and bloods. Penetrating oils, which oxidize and become fixed, are often the best choice for earthen floors, as they not only seal, but harden the floor as well. Unseed oil is probably the most cost effective and widely available of these oils. However, other options include hemp oil, castor oil and possibly, cottonseed, coconut, and fish oils. Boiled oils are preferred, because they require much less time to dry. Another option which we have not tried, but that could be superior to any of the above is stand oil. Stand oil is usually linseed or tung oil which has been exposed to oxygen in order to oxidize it In former times, oils were left to stand exposed to the oxygen in the air tQ produce the same effect and dais the name, stand oil, however stand oils can now be produced by injecting oxygen into the oil
Page 1 and 2: y Athena and Bill Steen illustratio
Page 3 and 4: Earthen Floors an introduction Eart
Page 5 and 6: Insulation For insulation, 4 to 6 i
Page 7 and 8: Mixing Test Samples for Finished Fl
Page 9 and 10: Applying the floor mixture is most
Page 11: The second layer Optimally; the sec
Page 15 and 16: Periodic Applications of Coat 4" ca
Page 17 and 18: Yavapai Sports Surfaces P.O. BOx 17

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