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Wayne Spence - myLargescale.com

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From the same brass stock, make the “U”<br />

shaped support bracket (the top of the<br />

bracket to be level with the top of the<br />

needle beam) and secure to the centre<br />

beam with brass pins. Make the 4mm x<br />

0.5mm brake lever, about 35mm long, drill<br />

three holes, as shown and connect to the<br />

“U” bracket. Set the two brake levers at<br />

about 25 degrees off square and install the<br />

main connecting rod. This rod can be<br />

made from 1.65mm copper or brass rod,<br />

hammered flat at each end. Drill a<br />

connecting pinhole at each end and<br />

connect with brass pins. Clevises can be<br />

used on each end of the main rod instead of flatting out the ends. I just happen to have run out of<br />

clevises<br />

at the time.<br />

From the clevis hole, near the piston clevis<br />

on<br />

the main brake lever, run a length of<br />

0.8mm brass wire to the brake wheel<br />

bracket. About an inch from the bracket,<br />

cut the wire and form a loop for the brake<br />

chain. Install a short length of suitable<br />

brass brake chain. This chain will latter be<br />

fixed to<br />

the brake wheel staff, between the<br />

brake<br />

bracket and end beam.

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