Trail Log 1995-1997 - Lamar at Colorado State University

In the dining car, there never seemed to be more than two knives for four persons.
Mountains now seen in distance, then more relief closer up on the landscape.
Generally very third-world looking. Ramshackle wood houses.
Changed time zones.
Reached Arkhara, bleak and about dark (9.30 p.m here). There were a few women selling food at
the train station. About a 20 minute stop. We didn't see an automobile in the whole town (nor,
except for Tygda, next morning, did I see one in the whole main part of this trip, though there were
some toward Chita, more later.) More likely there would be an old and odd-looking truck, often with
a leftover from the military look. Looking something like a cross between an old military truck and
a chicken coop. Maybe also an abandoned cab or bed of a truck.
Reached Magdagachi, a big railroad yard, and some apartment buildings. Ten minute stop, but we
couldn't get off. There are no paved roads to be seen.
June 18, Wednesday.
Waked at 5.00, with a stop at Tygda, another bleak village. Some 5-6 automobiles seen here.
There is some adventure getting your face washed in the toilet. There is a hot and cold tap, but
only cold water. You have to hold up a plunger under the spigot while you get a trickle of cold
water. You can't drink this water. To brush your teeth, you get boiled water from the samovar at
the other end of the car.
Although we are only 50 miles from the Chinese border, there is no Oriental look at all to the towns,
either the architecture or people, as before in Khabarovsk. The Russians built the railroad and
dumped the settlers along it. More wooden houses, with big piles of stove wood outside.
Breakfast.
Stopped at a village ? and got out about ten minutes.
Notes from a lecture in the dining car:
This is permafrost country. It may not be so on the hills but in the valleys, and perhaps on northern
exposures and not southern exposures. The permafrost is in patches, often small pieces, 10 sq.
meters to 40 sq. meters.
Betula verrucosa, Populus tremuloides, Pinus sylvestris.
Population density in Siberia is quite low, mostly along the railroad, or the rivers, lakes, roads.
Only about 100 frost free days here.
The richest land on Earth per capita is Australia, though it is quite short of water.
Sign noted, 7,255 km. to Moscow.