Trail Log 1995-1997 - Lamar at Colorado State University

where we camped in 1967 on the river trip, 29 years ago. I have only pictures of the Black Bridge
from that trip; the Silver Bridge may not have then been built. Reached Phantom Ranch perhaps
2.30 p.m. The Black Bridge, or Kaibab bridge is the oldest. The Silver Bridge was really built for
the pipeline; mules will not cross it, as they can see the river below through the gridwork floor.
Mileage down 6.3 to river. 6.9 to Ranch.
Descent from rim at Kaibab trailhead, Yaki Point, 7260 ft, to river, 2400 ft., is 4,660 ft. Ascent here
is discouraged in summer; too steep and hot. About 250 people a year have to be rescued from
the canyon. No water on this trail.
There is to be an artificial flood in March, to wash out the accumulated sand from the side canyons.
Maybe. But the river as a whole has much less sediment than once; it is stopped in Glen Canyon
Dam.
Phantom Ranch was once Rust's Camp, from David Rust, 1902 onward. Teddy Roosevelt stayed
here in 1913, and it took the name Roosevelt's Camp. It became Phantom Ranch from 1922 on.
There are some Indian ruins near the river, from about 1100 A.D., but afterwards unoccupied.
There were for a number of years several stone cabins, now more cabins, for 2-4 people usually,
once and still used by the mule trains. Built in 1976, now there are also 4 dormitories, so called,
with ten beds, for men or women. There are usually about 75 here, if a couple take a cabin; if the
cabins are packed with children or whatever, there can be 90 at maximum. Campground has about
30 sites. About two pack strings of mules come down each day, plus one supply string. There is
a telephone, now via microwave, though once a famous telephone line rim to rim, which is now a
historic landmark.
Water is taken from Roaring Springs, up the North Rim trail, piped down, through Phantom Ranch
and rises by gravity to Indian Springs, from which it is pumped to the South Rim. Also there is an
electric line with the pipe, all buried under the trail, more or less.
There really is no winter here, no snow, but snow on the rims shuts them down pretty much for half
of December and January. There may be show for the first mile or two of trail; too icy to get the
mules over and not really that pleasant for hikers. But from February on through November it is
steadily booked for 6-9 months. The men in the dormitory with me had booked last May for this trip,
now February.
This is Lower Sonoran Desert, with the flora of northern Mexico.
Flora: mesquite (Prosopis glandulosa)
Catclaw (Acacia greggii)
Prickly Pear. Some willows.
Agave
High today 82 degrees, low 50.
Mule deer in Ranch area. One woman saw a ringtail; I did not.
Monday, Feb. 18. Walked out, Bright Angel Trail. Breakfast was at 5.30, and left at 6.15, not
moving very fast because it was still too dark to see much but the outline of the white sandy trail.
A little more light by the time I went over the Silver Bridge, and soon enough plenty of light to see.
Trail goes along the river about a mile or so, then you climb. Relentless climb. But it is a quite
good graded trail, never really the virtual stairsteps that the Kaibab trail has coming down. Passed
Indian Springs. A few deer here. Two tunnels, or, better, rock cuts, are near the top. Somewhat
cloudy, though the trail is in the shadow of the canyon walls surprisingly so that it was really 11.30
before I had my head in any sunshine. There is good water at Indian Springs, and, in summer,