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Trail Log 1995-1997 - Lamar at Colorado State University

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19<br />

somewh<strong>at</strong> better on the return trip, and seen again, best of all, from the plane l<strong>at</strong>er, flying from<br />

Nairobi to Johannesburg.<br />

In Tanzania there is a College of African Wildlife Management <strong>at</strong> Mweka, a village 10 km. north of<br />

Moshi (100 km. east of Arusha) and south of Kilimanjaro N<strong>at</strong>ional Park. This village is not shown<br />

in my big Freytag and Berndt Kenya-Tanzania-Uganda map, but it is in the Lonely Planet, East<br />

Africa guide, p. 606, p. 611, with mention of the College there. One of the favored trails up Mt.<br />

Kilimanjaro starts from here. Ron Engel's friend, Tom Gilbert, taught there; Gene Decker says it<br />

was once better, is now no good.<br />

B<strong>at</strong>-eared fox, killed roadside.<br />

This is still Masai country.<br />

Big ostrich farm.<br />

<strong>Log</strong>s hanging from trees are beehives.<br />

Augur buzzard.<br />

As you near Arusha you climb and there is more veget<strong>at</strong>ion. Much better w<strong>at</strong>ered, now maize and<br />

bananas appear.<br />

Drove though village with market (pix).<br />

We reached Arusha, and drove through Arusha some 10 km. out of town to lunch <strong>at</strong> the so-called<br />

"Mountain Lodge," though there is no particular mountain nearby, on Lake Duluti. Met Keith James,<br />

from Wales, the general manager of Ranger Safaris. Arusha is very much a third world city. The<br />

Tanzanian shilling (about 550 to $1) is very differently priced from a Kenyan shilling (about 52 to<br />

$1). Th<strong>at</strong> is a tenfold difference, and represents something of the difference between the two<br />

countries. Kenya did not n<strong>at</strong>ionalize landholdings <strong>at</strong> the time of independence, although Keny<strong>at</strong>ta<br />

had said he would he reversed himself. Tanzania did and insisted on a socialist economy, which<br />

has not worked, and l<strong>at</strong>ely they have been backing off into capitalism.<br />

After lunch, went to the bank to change money, to the post office, and to a camera store, where,<br />

to my surprise, I found the cable release I could not find in four Nairobi stores.<br />

Ranger Safaris, our tour group, has 100 vehicles, 100 drivers.<br />

Arusha is halfway between Capetown and Cairo, with a roundabout in the center celebr<strong>at</strong>ing this.<br />

We left to drive toward Lake Manyara, and the Serengeti. There is a good tarred road for an hour<br />

or so, until you reach a junction <strong>at</strong> Makuyuni, then a rough dirt thereafter for the rest of the trip.<br />

Sedans disappear and there are only four-wheel drives.<br />

Tawny eagle, you tell it because it is dark brown and by size.<br />

6 ostriches<br />

The country is drying out, but there is still good grass,<br />

few acacias.<br />

Baobab tree, a famous tree. Genus: Adansonia. Odd looking, massive trunks and very contorted.<br />

Pix in Blundell, Wild Flowers of East Africa, pl. 53 and 54. They live 1,000 years, some say 2,000

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