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Sierra Morena The authentic character of a sustainable region

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<strong>eco</strong><br />

<strong>tourism</strong><br />

2014. #<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong><strong>02</strong>. Interactive Guide<br />

Birdwatching<br />

Walking the GR48<br />

Astro-<strong>tourism</strong><br />

Culture<br />

Local cuisine<br />

Sierra<br />

Morena<br />

in Spain<br />

Credits<br />

#<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong> 1


Sierra Morena<br />

Other magazines of interest<br />

2 #<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong>


<strong>eco</strong><br />

<strong>tourism</strong><br />

Sustainable territory<br />

B<br />

Credits<br />

Cycle route through El Real de la Jara (Seville) which is also the pilgrim way to Santiago (along the<br />

southern stretch of the Vía de la Plata) and walkers along the GR-48. © Joan Garriga<br />

Sierra Morena<br />

The authentic character of a sustainable region<br />

It is difficult to find such a vast area that<br />

can offer amenities like comfortable accommodation<br />

where without difficulty<br />

you can find yourself completely integrated<br />

with nature.<br />

The charming villages, the deeply rooted<br />

traditions, the rewarding routes and<br />

the age-old cuisine providing enough<br />

energy to face scenic routes for the<br />

pure pleasure of enjoying the simplest<br />

and everyday things that our eyes don’t<br />

usually see: the harvest; the silhouette of<br />

a flying bird hardly visible but with patience<br />

and a pair of binoculars you can<br />

put a name to it; enough time to rest<br />

under a spreading chestnut tree; point<br />

out a high cloud, either threatening<br />

rain or like candyfloss; relax a while in a<br />

busy plaza where a few children are still<br />

playing away from the lazy influence of<br />

the TV; camp in a bivouac under a sky<br />

of stars beyond compare with other star<br />

glazers contemplating the splendours of<br />

the cosmos; feel the streets beat under<br />

your feet during their festivals, Christian<br />

or pagan, in celebration of Life.<br />

Experiences.<br />

#<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong> 3


Sierra Morena<br />

Andalusian Map © Karlos Arroyo<br />

4 #<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong>


Map<br />

#<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong> 5


Sierra Morena<br />

A beautiful Rock emerges above the village of Alájar (Huelva) the site of a lovely hermitage. This enclave in the S<br />

re Arias Montano retreated, the heterodox scholar and librarian of El Escorial, giving the rock the name of the P<br />

Calopteryx xanthostoma (Western Demoiselle), an endemic species in the south-east of Europe. © Rafael Rom<br />

6 #<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong>


The territory<br />

Sierra Morena covers an area that<br />

only a poet could put its hidden<br />

spirit in plain words. Sierra Morena is<br />

not only bandits and untamed penitents<br />

like Don Quijote came across, but ordinary<br />

people who love the land where<br />

they live and care for it, look after their<br />

animals and set great store by their resources.<br />

Visitors in search of hustle, bustle, noise,<br />

haste, quick fixes, will not enjoy the<br />

many experiences of the journey. There<br />

are good communications, accommodation<br />

and restaurants, lots of well-prepared,<br />

signposted routes, balconies and<br />

a long distance walking route (GR 48)<br />

that forms the backbone of the whole<br />

area in all the provinces. It is a paradise<br />

for nature lovers, bird watchers, sportspersons,<br />

star gazers or simply foodies<br />

looking for new sensations.<br />

ierra de Aracena and Picos de Aroche was the place wheeña<br />

de Arias Montano. Photo: © SH. Right photo: A male<br />

ero Porrino<br />

Sierra Morena comprises 57 municipalities<br />

in the provinces of Jaén, Córdoba,<br />

Seville and Huelva, all within the Sierra<br />

Morena geographic region.<br />

It has a population of 186 085 inhabitants<br />

(2013 census), only 2% of the total<br />

population of Andalucía although Sierra<br />

Morena occupies 13% of its total<br />

area. With low density of the population<br />

ranging from 9 inhabitants per square<br />

kilometre in the Sierra Morena in the<br />

province of Córdoba to 35 inhabitants<br />

per square kilometre in the North of the<br />

province of Jaén, well below the average<br />

in Andalucía of 80 inhabitants per<br />

#<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong> 7


Sierra Morena<br />

Above, Zufre, a beautiful village in Huelva, declared to be an Artistic Historic Complex. Photo: © Rafael Romer<br />

has lovely buildings and the famous Karst rock formation in the Gruta de las Maravillas cave. Photo: SH<br />

8 #<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong>


The territory<br />

square kilometre.<br />

Sustainable <strong>tourism</strong><br />

Their commitment with the environment<br />

is certified by the model of sustainable<br />

development the villages have opted<br />

for, with the “Q” for quality <strong>tourism</strong> mark<br />

that many of the local businesses have<br />

obtained and because of the confidence<br />

of buying products that are certified<br />

by the Brand “Parque Natural de<br />

Andalucía”.<br />

In this sense it is worth mentioning that<br />

the Nature Parks of Sierra de Andújar,<br />

Sierra de Cardeña-Montoro, Sierra de<br />

Hornachuelos, Sierra Norte de Sevilla<br />

and Sierra de Aracena and Picos de<br />

Aroche have achieved the “EU Charter<br />

for Sustainable Tourism” which aims at<br />

providing methods for applying principles<br />

of sustainable <strong>tourism</strong>, guidelines for<br />

the people and the businesses manago<br />

Porrino. The town of Aracena (Huelva), on the right, also<br />

#<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong> 9


Sierra Morena<br />

ing these areas so they<br />

can set up tenable strategies<br />

and actions collectively.<br />

The Sierra Morena landscape<br />

is like a continuous<br />

patch dominated by a<br />

succession of mountains<br />

and valleys. The mountains<br />

are mainly medium<br />

to low, with some higher<br />

peaks with contrasting<br />

ravines that provide a<br />

rugged note to the predominantly<br />

gentle slopes.<br />

The valleys are low and<br />

long, corresponding to<br />

the characteristics of the<br />

rivers, except in the most<br />

western sector where a<br />

central valley has been<br />

formed cutting through<br />

the mountains.<br />

The <strong>eco</strong>nomy is based on<br />

farming: livestock, forestry,<br />

agriculture and hunting<br />

are the mainstay of the<br />

<strong>eco</strong>nomy in the area and<br />

most cases don’t have a<br />

single activity but a combination<br />

of them all.<br />

Nature<br />

The meadows make up<br />

an important component<br />

of the landscape<br />

and black Iberian pigs (of<br />

delicious “pata negra”<br />

hams), bulls, cows and<br />

sheep graze free range<br />

here.<br />

The forests provide cork,<br />

honey and produce<br />

from the pine trees. Olive<br />

groves dominate the<br />

Sierra Morena offers fresh landscapes and riparian forests along the river bank<br />

waterfalls. Photo: © Francisco Martínez Sáez<br />

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The territory<br />

s and oak woods in the adjacent areas. The tuffaceous limestone along the streams form the characteristic<br />

#<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong> 11


Sierra Morena<br />

The Jándula river runs through the foothills of the Sierra de Andújar (Jaén) and presents typical landscapes of th<br />

the rutting season, a typical sound in the Sierra Morena nature area. Photos: © Rafael Romero Porrino<br />

12 #<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong>


The territory<br />

landscape and cover the gentle slopes;<br />

they provide excellent olive oil although<br />

with a low yield.<br />

In total the Nature Parks cover an area<br />

of approximately 528.631 hectares.<br />

Part of the area makes up the “Meadows<br />

of Sierra Morena” Reserve of the<br />

Biosphere. They are protected nature<br />

areas with an enormous wealth of flora<br />

that is of great botanical interest the<br />

same as the fauna.<br />

There are reservoirs and rivers in many<br />

of the Parks that cut through the areas<br />

providing the opportunity for adventure<br />

holidays and other activities. With<br />

regard to the different fauna, we can<br />

mention the existence of small species<br />

like rabbits, foxes, genets; even some<br />

species in danger of extinction like the<br />

Iberian lynx and the wolf. There are also<br />

interesting species for bird lovers like<br />

goshawks, sparrow-hawks, imperial eagles,<br />

golden eagles, Bonillo’s eagles, eagle<br />

owls, black vultures, griffon vultures,<br />

Egyptian vultures, black storks, etc.<br />

These are places that have a wealth of<br />

large game like deer, wild boar, fallow<br />

and roe deer.<br />

e whole Sierra Morena territory. On the right, a stag during<br />

There are also beautiful places and rich<br />

landscapes that include the Cimbarra<br />

Waterfall Nature Park, in the municipality<br />

of Aldeaquemada with an area of<br />

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Sierra Morena<br />

Burgalimar castle in Baños de la Encina (Jaén), an impressive fortress with 14 towers dating from the tenth cent<br />

Sierra Morena. On the right, Argiope Lobata, a spider characteristic of these Mediterranean <strong>eco</strong>systems. Photo<br />

14 #<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong>


The territory<br />

534 hectares. Also the<br />

Peñas de Aroche and<br />

Sierra Pelada and the<br />

Rivera del Aserrador, also<br />

listed and protected as<br />

Nature Areas (Parajes<br />

Naturales), with an area<br />

of 718 hectares and<br />

12.980 hectares respectively,<br />

both situated to the<br />

south east of the Sierra<br />

de Aracena and Picos de<br />

Aroche district between<br />

the municipalities of Almonaster<br />

la Real, Aroche,<br />

Cortegana and Rosal de<br />

la Frontera.<br />

ury, dominates the Sierra Morena in the province of Jaén. Photo: © ADIT<br />

: © Rafael Romero Porrino<br />

The Natural Landscape<br />

Monuments in Sierra<br />

Morena are also a great<br />

attraction: the Organ<br />

Pipes of Despeñaperros in<br />

Santa Elena, El Cerro del<br />

Hierro rock forms in San<br />

Nicolás del Puerto and<br />

Constantina. The Huéznar<br />

waterfall also in San Nicolas<br />

del Puerto, Encina de<br />

la Dehesa de San Francisco<br />

holm oak forest in<br />

Santa Olalla del Cala and<br />

the loop in the river Guadalquivir<br />

at Montoro.<br />

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Sierra Morena<br />

European Bee-eater (Merops apiaster). Photo: © Rafael Romero Porrino<br />

16 #<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong>


Birdwatching routes<br />

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Sierra Morena<br />

18 #<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong>


Birdwatching routes<br />

Above, the Cerro del Hierro in the Sierra Norte of Seville. Photo: © tuscasasrurales. On the left,<br />

rushing streams in Sierra Morena. Photo: © Rafael Romero<br />

Birdwatching: Seven reasons for picking Sierra Morena<br />

Why choose Sierra Morena for Birdwatching?<br />

Seven reasons why<br />

birdwatchers want to come to this<br />

new and – still – not very often visited destination:<br />

1. First of all, out of its 241 bird species there<br />

are many of the jewels of the<br />

Iberian birdlife and Mediterranean species<br />

like the Spanish imperial eagle and the<br />

black vulture (its main colonies in Andalucía<br />

are here), Bonelli’s eagle, booted eagle,<br />

short-toed eagle, black kite, lesser kestrel,<br />

griffon vulture, bee-eater, orphean warbler,<br />

Sub-alpine warbler, Sardinian warbler, Iberian<br />

chiffchaff, white-rumped swift, Alpine<br />

swift, pallid swift, little swift, red-necked<br />

nightjar, red-billed chuff, black-eared<br />

wheatear and black wheatear, blue rock<br />

thrush, rock sparrow, Spanish sparrow,<br />

red-rumped sparrow, black stork, white<br />

stork, European Green woodpecker, azurewinged<br />

magpie, great spotted cuckoo,<br />

little bustard, Montagu’s harrier, Dartford<br />

warbler, thelka lark, hoopoe, common starling,<br />

rufous-tailed scrub robin, Western olivaceous<br />

warbler, stone curlew, cirl bunting,<br />

European turtle dove, red-legged partridge,<br />

woodchat shrike, Southern grey shrike, purple<br />

swamp hen and the golden oriole.<br />

2. These nature areas are also the habitat<br />

of endangered carnivorous species like<br />

the Iberian lynx and the Iberian wolf as<br />

well as large numbers of deer, fallow deer,<br />

mouflons and other mammals. There is an<br />

exceptional list of reptiles and amphibians<br />

with several exclusive taxa from the Iberian<br />

Peninsula and the South-east of Europe.<br />

3. The expert naturalist will also have the<br />

opportunity to enjoy the well conserved<br />

bat fauna, autochthonous fish and insects<br />

(including the dragonfly which is worth a<br />

special mention). The flora includes many<br />

species associated with a Mediterranean<br />

#<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong> 19


Sierra Morena<br />

Watching birds of prey in Sierra Morena. On the right, a griffon vulture (Gyps fulvus). Photos: © Rafael Romero<br />

20 #<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong>


Birdwatching routes<br />

climate and include beautiful wild spring<br />

orchids.<br />

4. Additionally you have to keep in mind<br />

the fact that Sierra Morena is situated<br />

close to other top bird areas like Doñana<br />

(only an hour away) and La Serena (also<br />

an hour away). As well as being relatively<br />

close to interesting places for nature and<br />

bird lovers like the Odiel marshes, the Brazo<br />

del Este wetlands, the Fuente de Piedra<br />

salt lake, the Sierras de Grazalema and<br />

Ronda or the lakes and countryside of La<br />

Lantejuela-Osuna. A bit further away but<br />

still easy to get to you have the Straits of<br />

Gibraltar, Sierra Nevada, Almería-Cabo<br />

de Gata and the plains of Cáceres-Trujillo.<br />

This is why it is easy to plan a visit combining<br />

several of these places that have very<br />

diverse birdlife and landscapes so the<br />

birdwatcher can mark up a long list of birds<br />

without moving far.<br />

Porrino<br />

5. Sierra Morena is well situated for those<br />

visitors who stay in the lovely historic cities<br />

of Seville, Córdoba, Jaén and Granada,<br />

not forgetting Úbeda and Baeza, World<br />

Heritage Sites. It is also less than an hour<br />

from Seville airport, one hour twenty minutes<br />

from Granada-Jaén airport, less than<br />

two hours from Málaga-Costa del Sol and<br />

two and a half hours from Madrid and<br />

Faro-Algarve airports.<br />

#<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong> 21


Sierra Morena<br />

6. The whole of Sierra Morena<br />

is dotted with lovely<br />

small white villages that are<br />

typical of Andalucía with<br />

an interesting historic-artistic<br />

heritage. They offer varied<br />

accommodation in hotels,<br />

boarding houses, rural accommodation,<br />

camp sites<br />

and <strong>eco</strong>-farms. The cuisine<br />

is especially good and it is<br />

highly appreciated in Spain<br />

and abroad, its “pata negra”<br />

ham comes from pigs<br />

that graze free-range and<br />

eat acorns from the oak<br />

groves and its olive oil is<br />

excellent.<br />

7. Recently Sierra Morena<br />

has been r<strong>eco</strong>gnized as an<br />

ideal place for <strong>eco</strong>-<strong>tourism</strong>.<br />

The emerging business network<br />

made up of small local<br />

companies – respecting the<br />

environment and with all the<br />

necessary permits– offers<br />

services like guided Birdwatching<br />

tours, photographing<br />

birds of prey and passeriormes<br />

from hides, walks,<br />

detecting and sighting lynx<br />

and other mammals, identifying<br />

mushrooms, cultural<br />

and ethnographical tours,<br />

Nordic walking, canoeing,<br />

horse riding, etc.<br />

Walking along the GR-48. The best route for adventure <strong>tourism</strong> in the Sierra<br />

22 #<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong>


Birdwatching routes<br />

Morena. Photo: © Abén Aljama Martínez. On the left: cork oaks in Sierra Morena. Photo: © Rafael Romero<br />

#<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong> 23


Sierra Morena<br />

Chestnut groves in Sierra Morena. On the right, a little owl (Athene noctua). Photos: © Rafael Romero Porrino<br />

24 #<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong>


Birdwatching routes<br />

Internet links for Birdwatching<br />

u Access the Bird Guide (Guía de Aves) in<br />

Sierra Morena online<br />

u Information on the 62 signposted Birdwatching<br />

routes in Sierra Morena, including<br />

location and top species<br />

u Books from the collection Routes to see<br />

Birds and Nature in Sierra Morena (Rutas<br />

para ver Aves y Naturaleza en Sierra Morena)<br />

that are a pocket edition to take with<br />

you so you don’t miss anything<br />

u The MITO network. A group of companies<br />

specialising in Birdwatching holidays in the<br />

Sierra Morena, ideal for planning visits to<br />

Sierra Morena, including accommodation<br />

aimed at bird-watchers and companies<br />

dedicated to adventure holidays and <strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong><br />

offering services linked to Birdwatching,<br />

nature photography and walking<br />

holidays.<br />

Birdwatching and nature routes in<br />

Sierra de Aracena and Picos de<br />

Aroche<br />

This very large district is situated at the<br />

western frontier of the Sierra Morena in<br />

the province of Huelva. In its area of over<br />

300.000 hectares you can find varied Mediterranean<br />

landscapes, like rivers with oleanders<br />

and broom, tall thick oak woods, large<br />

patches of Mediterranean scrub, famous<br />

chestnut groves, well conserved riverside<br />

forests and extensive meadows that perfectly<br />

exemplify what is called today “sus-<br />

#<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong> 25


Sierra Morena<br />

Tecla lark (Galerida theklae), one of the birds you can find in Sierra Morena. Right, Caesar's mushroom. Photos<br />

26 #<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong>


Birdwatching routes<br />

tainable use” of resources.<br />

: © Rafael Romero Porrino<br />

• H-1. Vulture country<br />

• H-2. The Buervas Valley<br />

(Aracena Reservoir)<br />

• H-3. Route of Our Lady<br />

of the Puerto<br />

• H-4. Centenary chestnut<br />

trees<br />

• H-5. Teuler mines<br />

• H-6. Through the oak<br />

groves in Huelva province<br />

• H-7. Aracena Castle<br />

• H-8. The Cala riverside<br />

• H-9. Frontier birds<br />

• H-10. Meadows of the<br />

Sillo river and the Celtic<br />

settlement of Capote<br />

• H-11. Chorros de Ollarancos<br />

waterfall<br />

• H-12. Family friendly:<br />

The source of the river<br />

Odiel<br />

• H-13. River Múrtigas<br />

and the Torres valley<br />

• H-14. Plains of Gracia<br />

• H-15. Las Peñuelas<br />

• H-16. Cala Castle<br />

• H-17. Banks of the Alcalaboza<br />

#<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong> 27


Sierra Morena<br />

Sierra Morena is the habitat for fauna that will delight naturalists. Right, The Iberian lynx. Above, an otter. Photos<br />

28 #<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong>


Birdwatching routes<br />

: © Rafael Romero Porrino<br />

Birdwatching and<br />

nature routes in Sierra<br />

Morena in the<br />

province of Seville<br />

Few visitors imagine that at<br />

such a short distance from<br />

the Giralda tower there is<br />

such an extraordinary district,<br />

a perfect mixture between<br />

the wild and rouge side of<br />

the eastern Sierra Morena<br />

and the luxuriant beauty<br />

of the riparian forest on the<br />

banks of the Huéznar river<br />

which cuts through the western<br />

part of the mountains.<br />

• SE-1. Viar Valley<br />

• SE-2. La Senda trail<br />

• SE-3. Onza mountains<br />

and the river Bembézar<br />

• SE-4. Las suertes del<br />

Guadalbacar river<br />

• SE-5. A wood in stone<br />

• SE-6. The riverside woods<br />

of the Ciudadeja<br />

• SE-7. Along the banks<br />

of the Huéznar river<br />

• SE-8. Los Covachos<br />

• SE-9. The riverside<br />

meadows of the Cala<br />

• SE-10. Eagle country<br />

• SE-11. Family friendly: El<br />

Venero<br />

• SE-12. The Viar Canyon<br />

• SE-13. Melonares<br />

bridge<br />

• SE-14. El Galeón<br />

• SE-15. Retortillo reservoir<br />

Birdwatching and<br />

nature routes in the<br />

Sierra Morena in the<br />

province of Córdoba<br />

As unknown as it is interesting,<br />

this part of the Sierra<br />

Morena in the province of<br />

Córdoba watches over the<br />

monumental city of the<br />

Mosque from on high. Between<br />

the deep ravines of<br />

the Retortillo river and the<br />

emblematic Yeguas valley,<br />

a never-ending string of<br />

mountains, crags and rivers<br />

spread out with their rich<br />

natural treasures.<br />

• CO-1. Sierra de Hornachuelos<br />

• CO-2. Guadalmellato<br />

• CO-3. Guadalora<br />

Stream<br />

• CO-4. Névalo Castle<br />

• CO-5. Cliffs of Sierra<br />

del Castillo<br />

• CO-6. Los Ángeles trekking<br />

trail<br />

• CO-7. Uncommon<br />

commonland<br />

• CO-8. El Valle<br />

• CO-9. Cabeza Aguda<br />

#<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong> 29


Sierra Morena<br />

30 #<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong>


Birdwatching routes<br />

Left, paeonia broteri, endemic on the Iberian Peninsula. Above, an eagle owl (Bubo bubo). Photos:<br />

© Rafael Romero Porrino<br />

pine grove<br />

• CO-10. Film scenery<br />

• CO-11. Family friendly: La Rabilarga walk<br />

• CO-12. Guadalquivir river<br />

• CO-13. Guadiato ravines<br />

• CO-14. Slopes of the Guadalbarbo<br />

• CO-15. The Station<br />

Routes through the Sierra Morena<br />

in the province of Jaén<br />

The Despeñaperros mountain pass is always<br />

open to travellers who want to go deep<br />

into the Sierra Morena in the province of<br />

Jaén. Thousands of acres of Mediterranean<br />

forest are waiting for you there, holm and<br />

cork oaks, extensive pine groves, rivers<br />

speckled with oleanders and dense riverside<br />

woods, mountains and hills dotted with<br />

granite rocks and rocky ravines, meadows<br />

where fighting bulls graze, countryside with<br />

silver olive groves and fertile valleys irrigated<br />

by the great Guadalquivir river.<br />

• J-1. Miner birds<br />

• J-2. Valdeazores Ravine<br />

• J-3. Foothills of the Sierra Morena<br />

• J-4. The Jándula river’s farewell<br />

• J-5. Land of lynxes<br />

• J-6. El Rey vantage point<br />

• J-7. La Cimbarra waterfalls<br />

• J-8. Mount Burguillos<br />

• J-9. Family friendly: La Pasada del<br />

Castaño<br />

• J-10. Family friendly: la Campana<br />

river (La Aliseda)<br />

• J-11. La Lancha<br />

• J-12. Peñón Jurado and Las Tres Hermanas<br />

• J-13. Birds n the open countryside<br />

• J-14. Bury al-Hammam<br />

• J-15. The banks of the Guadalquivir river<br />

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Sierra Morena<br />

Jaén<br />

Córdoba<br />

Huelva<br />

Sevilla<br />

The long distance walking route through the<br />

Sierra Morena GR-48<br />

The route of the Sierra Morena trail - GR<br />

48 starts in the village of Barrancos in<br />

Portugal and runs along public roads<br />

through the province of Huelva, Seville, Córdoba<br />

and Jaén along 590 km in 28 stages<br />

and an alternative route..<br />

It is designed to take you through six nature<br />

parks in Andalucía, coinciding with green<br />

footpaths that inter-communicate protected<br />

areas, historic and traditional pathways.<br />

Landscapes where Mediterranean forest<br />

predominates in its purest form along side<br />

meadows, declared by the UNESCO to be<br />

a Reserve of the Biosphere, with some olive<br />

groves scattered about. Territory that is still<br />

the habitat for species as scarce as the<br />

Iberian lynx, the wolf, black vulture and the<br />

Spanish imperial eagle. Villages with history<br />

where man has known how to preserve<br />

natural values by integrating them into his<br />

own way of life.<br />

General information<br />

• Type of path: Lineal with a alternative<br />

circular route<br />

• Condition and state of the footpath: Approved<br />

and signposted in 2010<br />

• Total length: 571 km.<br />

• Stages: 28 + Alternative GR 48.1<br />

• Accessibility: Suitable on foot, horseback<br />

and, except for a few isolated stretches,<br />

on mountain bike.<br />

• Map information: I.G.N./S.G.E. 1:50.000.<br />

Huelva: nº 895 Encinasola, 896 Higuera<br />

la Real, 918 Santa Olalla de Cala, 919<br />

Almadén de la Plata. Sevilla: 1:25.000<br />

del I.G.N.: 919-I; 919-III; 919-IV; 940-II; 919-<br />

IV; 920-III; 920-I; 920-II; 920-IV; 921-III; 942-I.<br />

Córdoba: nº 942 Palma del Río, 943<br />

Posadas, 922 Sta. Mª de Trassierra, 923<br />

Córdoba, 9<strong>02</strong> Adamuz, and 903 Montoro.<br />

Jaén: Nº 903, Nº 884, nº 862.<br />

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The GR 48 route<br />

Left, interactive map of the GR-48. Above, the river canyon with Mediterranean vegetation in the<br />

Sierra de Hornachuelos (Córdoba). Photo: © Rafael Romero Porrino<br />

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Sierra Morena<br />

Above, cycle touring along the track in the Sierra Norte in the province of Seville on the Rivera del Huéznar riv<br />

On the right, leafy places on route that are very welcome in summer. Photo: © Rafael Romero Porrino<br />

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The GR 48 route<br />

The GR 48 “Sierra<br />

Morena trail”<br />

This impressive itinerary goes<br />

through the Sierra Morena<br />

mountains in the provinces<br />

of Huelva, Seville, Córdoba<br />

and Jaén along 571 kilometres<br />

and is divided into 28<br />

stages and an alternative<br />

circular route.<br />

On foot, bike or horseback<br />

this long distance, or GR<br />

route, is one of the most<br />

attractive in the South of<br />

Spain. On route you will<br />

discover ancient pathways<br />

and come in direct contact<br />

with the culture and nature<br />

of the Sierra Morena. The<br />

trail is completely signposted<br />

and it has four topographical<br />

guides, one for each<br />

province, both in Spanish<br />

and in English, which can be<br />

downloaded for free on the<br />

web:<br />

www.senderogr48.com/.<br />

er. Photo: Carlos León / Cyclo Natural.<br />

It goes through 35 Andalusian<br />

municipalities, travellers<br />

can enjoy a mixture of<br />

landscapes from meadows,<br />

ravines, rivers and streams,<br />

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Sierra Morena<br />

Walking along a stretch of the GR-48. Photo: © ADIT Sierra Morena. On the right, woodchat shrike (Lanius sen<br />

36 #<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong>


The GR 48 route<br />

olive groves, pine groves<br />

and Mediterranean scrub.<br />

For further information<br />

ator). Photo: © Rafael Romero<br />

If you need more detailed<br />

information on the GR 48<br />

Trail through Sierra Morena<br />

you can contact ADIT Sierra<br />

Morena E-mail:<br />

gr48@sierramorena.com<br />

There is a very complete<br />

website dedicated exclusively<br />

to the Sierra Morena<br />

trail, http://www.senderogr48.<br />

com, where each stage is<br />

described, you can download<br />

the tracks for GPS<br />

navigation and the 4 existing<br />

topological guides for each<br />

one free and in both Spanish<br />

and English.<br />

In addition to the website,<br />

Sierra Morena is on facebook:<br />

http://www.facebook.<br />

com/ADITsierramorena with<br />

information for all those who<br />

use the trail on its present<br />

condition and about Sierra<br />

Morena in general, like walking<br />

activities or any incident<br />

on route.<br />

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Sierra Morena<br />

The topographical guides<br />

The topographical guides are the ideal<br />

complement for a pleasant excursion along<br />

any part of the GR-48. They include texts,<br />

photos, diagrams, as well as maps and all<br />

the necessary material for you to do the<br />

route safely. In addition there is a general<br />

introduction to each province the trail goes<br />

through, there is also information on each<br />

place the trail goes through.<br />

You can download the topographical<br />

guides (PDF format)<br />

• GR-48 Huelva Guide<br />

• GR-48 Sevilla Guide<br />

• GR-48 Córdoba Guide<br />

• GR-48 Jaén Guide<br />

The stages of the GR-48<br />

The different stages have been designed<br />

for you to do on mountain bike, on foot or<br />

on horseback covering different distances<br />

according to difficulty and planned mainly<br />

so that the beginning and end of each<br />

stage coincide with towns and villages or<br />

places where you can stay and at least get<br />

a meal.<br />

01. Barrancos – Encinasola<br />

<strong>02</strong>. Encinasola – Cumbres de San Bartolomé<br />

03. Cumbres de San Bartolomé – Cumbres<br />

Mayores<br />

04. Cumbres Mayores – Hinojales<br />

05. Hinojales – Arroyomolinos de León<br />

06. Arroyomolinos de León – Cala<br />

07. Cala – Santa Olalla del Cala<br />

08. Santa Olalla del Cala – El Real de la<br />

Jara<br />

09- El Real de la Jara – Almadén de la Plata<br />

10. Almadén de la Plata – Cazalla de la<br />

Sierra<br />

11. Cazalla de la Sierra – Constantina<br />

12. Constantina – La Puebla de los Infantes<br />

13. Puebla de los Infantes – Hornachuelos<br />

14. Hornachuelos – Posadas<br />

15. Posadas – Almodóvar del Río<br />

16. Almodóvar del Río – Sta Mº de Trassierra<br />

17. Sta Mº de Trassierra – Cerro Muriano<br />

18. Cerro Muriano – Villaharta<br />

19. Villaharta – Obejo<br />

20. Obejo – Presa del Guadalmellato<br />

21. Presa del Guadalmellato – Adamuz<br />

22. Adamuz – Montoro<br />

23. Montoro – Marmolejo<br />

24. Marmolejo – Santuario de la Virgen de<br />

la Cabeza<br />

25. Santuario de la Virgen de la Cabeza –<br />

Viñas de Peñallana<br />

26. Viñas de Peñallana – Baños de la Encina<br />

27. Baños de la Encina – La Carolina<br />

28. La Carolina – Santa Elena<br />

Variante circular GR-48.1: Rivera del Huéznar<br />

– Cerro del Hierro<br />

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The GR 48 route<br />

On the left, griffon vultures and black vultures eating what is left of a winter hunting trip in Sierra<br />

Morena. Above, the Nature Park of the Cimbarra waterfall. Photos: © Rafael Romero Porrino<br />

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Sierra Morena<br />

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Astro-<strong>tourism</strong>. Destination Starlight<br />

On the left, night sky from the Virgen de la Cabeza Sanctuary (Andújar). Above, star gazing in the<br />

heart of the Sierra Morena. Following page, the Cala Castle (Huelva). Photos: © José Jiménez<br />

Sierra Morena: where sky and earth meet<br />

Thanks to the constant work of the mountain<br />

inhabitants who are proud of their<br />

homeland, many already know that<br />

Sierra Morena is synonymous to wild nature,<br />

of remote moorland where the Mediterranean<br />

forest is present in all its splendour,<br />

white villages dotted on a landscape where<br />

silence is only interrupted by the mournful<br />

cry of eagles or the call of the deer or the<br />

roar of the stags. Yet, few know that Sierra<br />

Morena is also one of the best places on<br />

the continent to star gaze on clear nights.<br />

At present Sierra Morena is being studied for<br />

a Starlight Reserve and Tourist Destination,<br />

certified by the Institute of Astrophysics of<br />

the Canary Islands and authorised by the<br />

UNESCO, that only approve places where<br />

the night sky allows star gazing in the very<br />

best conditions with an absence of light pollution.<br />

When the sun goes down and the first stars<br />

appear then you are guaranteed a show. A<br />

deep, black sky appears in all its grandeur,<br />

the stars shine in a clear sky free from light<br />

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Sierra Morena<br />

42 #<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong>


Astro-<strong>tourism</strong>. Destination Starlight<br />

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Sierra Morena<br />

44 #<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong>


Astro-<strong>tourism</strong>. Destination Starlight<br />

Left, star gazing in the Sierra de Cardeña Montoro. Photo: © Juan Fernández. Above, a show in its<br />

immensity. Photo: © José Jiménez Garrido<br />

pollution, the abyss of the cosmos tempts<br />

us with questions and doubts and Sierra<br />

Morena is the ideal place to lose yourself<br />

in this sea of curiosity that engulfs us as we<br />

contemplate the mysteries of the universe.<br />

At present a network of holiday accommodation<br />

has adapted their services for tourists<br />

who are interested in astronomy, with observation<br />

zones equipped with telescopes,<br />

minimised illumination so that you can star<br />

gaze in the best conditions, with astronomy<br />

guides offering star gazing activities for<br />

families, groups of enthusiasts and people<br />

who are interested, as well as including a<br />

series of amenities that make astronomy<br />

something easy to do (Late check outs, hot<br />

drinks available at night, electrical sockets,<br />

dinner under the stars). In this way Sierra<br />

Morena has b<strong>eco</strong>me a reference point for<br />

astro-<strong>tourism</strong>, where enthusiasts have every<br />

commodity for star gazing.<br />

Most of the 57 municipalities in the Sierra<br />

Morena have understood the potential of<br />

the sky at night and they have got involved<br />

in its conservation, a common wealth that is<br />

often underestimated.<br />

Sierra Morena invites you to experience the<br />

thrill of watching the night sky that appears<br />

to explode in colour and light, immerse<br />

yourself in questioning and admiring a universe<br />

that we have hardly begun to understand.<br />

Let yourself be moved by the clear<br />

depth of dark skies in Sierra Morena.<br />

For further information:<br />

www.sierramorena.com<br />

www.astronomiasierramorena.com<br />

www.darkskyadvisors.com<br />

www.asociacionhubble.org<br />

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Sierra Morena<br />

Above, Museun dedicated to the Batlle of Navas de Tolosa (1212) in La Carolina (Jaén). Photo: ©<br />

Viajes Rumbo. Right, removing cork from the oaks in Sierra Morena. Photo: © Rafael Romero<br />

Culture, cuisine and traditions in Sierra Morena<br />

Since Prehistoric times, Sierra Morena<br />

has had strategic important and different<br />

civilisations have settled here, the<br />

prehistoric remains and cave paintings are<br />

evidence of this. Fortifications were erected<br />

here: Iberians, Carthaginians, Romans,<br />

Moors, Jews…, all chose these lands for<br />

their privileged geographic situation and<br />

climate, leaving evidence of their legacy<br />

and an important part of it has been conserved..<br />

The rich wealth and diversity of heritage in<br />

Sierra Morena offers a total of 206 elements<br />

that have been declared to be Heritage of<br />

Cultural Interest and 23 Historic Artistic Complexes.<br />

All this heritage is well conserved<br />

and accessible to visitors.<br />

Cuisine<br />

The base of the local cuisine is olive oil,<br />

game and the black Iberian pork fed on<br />

acorns. We can point out typical dishes like<br />

the marinated or pickled meat from the<br />

mountains, cooked meat from the mountains,<br />

black Iberian pork preserves, shoulder<br />

of pork, cured hams, Rulahuevos salad, camuña<br />

brazed lamb, ajoblanco cold soup,<br />

Salmorejo (a kind of gazpacho), mountain<br />

breadcrumbs, scrambled eggs, bollo de<br />

papas (Mashed potato with fried onion,<br />

garlic, pepper and tomato), ajogañán<br />

(bread, garlic, potato, cod, onion and red<br />

pepper), winter gazpacho… Dried fruits<br />

and nuts like almonds, walnuts, chestnuts;<br />

wild plants, mushrooms, asparagus, strawberry<br />

tree fruit, blackberries; herbs like<br />

46 #<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong>


Culture, cuisine and traditions<br />

Fiesta de los Rondeles en Casarabonela (Málaga) © José María Navarro Sánchez<br />

#<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong> 47


Sierra Morena<br />

Aroche (Huelva) © Javier Hernández Gallardo<br />

thyme, rosemary; and honey, these are also<br />

ingredients that are often used in the local<br />

cuisine. For dessert you have a kind of porridge<br />

called gachas, fig loaf with almonds,<br />

marzipan, fried wine cakes called soplanos,<br />

olive oil tarts…<br />

Crafts<br />

Ironwork stands out among the local crafts<br />

(scales, harnesses…), saddlery, hand sewing<br />

with hemp yarn, work with rushes, embroidery,<br />

basket making, ceramics, woodwork,<br />

48 #<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong>


Culture, cuisine and traditions<br />

leather work, esparto grass and wicker<br />

work, hunting crafts mainly articles made<br />

with horns (chairs, coat hangers, walking<br />

sticks, lamps) as well as the cuisine that includes<br />

cakes and conserves, not forgetting<br />

everything related to olive oil, wine, honey,<br />

anisette liquor…<br />

Festivals and Traditions<br />

Local folklore, festivals and customs are<br />

#<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong> 49


Sierra Morena<br />

On the previous page, Aracena (Huelva). Above, a typical street in Constantina (Seville). Photos: © Campese. R<br />

lle). Photo: © Juanpol. www.juampol.com/. Next page, Montoro (Córdoba), an artistic historic complex. Photo:<br />

50 #<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong>


Culture, cuisine and traditions<br />

ight, a panoramic view of the El Real de la Jara castle (Sevi-<br />

© Campese<br />

closely linked to agriculture; most of the<br />

festivals have their origins in the celebration<br />

of good harvests. Also it is worth mentioning<br />

the pig slaughtering, bonfires and<br />

hunting activities.<br />

Religious festivals also have great importance<br />

here, with romería type pilgrimages<br />

and processions of religious images that<br />

are famous all over Spain, like the Romería<br />

to the sanctuary of Our Lady of the Head<br />

(Virgen de la Cabeza) in Andújar, the oldest<br />

in Spain, Holy Week in Montoro with the<br />

traditional procession of Roman soldiers,<br />

festivals commemorating the Battle of<br />

Bailén, the cavalcade of the Three Wise<br />

Men in Higuera de la Sierra and the Romería<br />

type pilgrimage in honour of the Queen<br />

of Angels, all of these celebrations have<br />

been declared to be of National Tourist<br />

Interest.<br />

There are also some local dances worth a<br />

mention like La Lanza or Hinojales dance,<br />

the dance of El Pandero de Encinasola,<br />

Los Fandangos from Almonaster la Real<br />

and the sword dance from Obejo.<br />

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Sierra Morena<br />

FMontoro (Córdoba) © campese<br />

Tourist amenities<br />

Historic Heritage<br />

u Castles in perfect condition for visits<br />

u Churches, parishes and convents<br />

u Historic Heritage complexes by municipalities<br />

u Museums<br />

u Remains of settlements and relics of mining<br />

activities<br />

u Archaeological sites<br />

u Cave paintings<br />

u Battle sites<br />

u Trenches and a shelter from the Civil War<br />

u Baroque urban complexes<br />

u Roman roads.<br />

Ethnographic heritage<br />

u Festivals that have been declared to be<br />

of National Tourist Interest (Romería type<br />

pilgrimage of Our Lady of the Head, Holy<br />

Week in Montoro…)<br />

u Peculiar Folk Expression the legacy of<br />

other cultures.<br />

Natural Heritage<br />

u 6 Nature Parks. (Special Protection Areas<br />

(SPA) and Sites of Community Importance<br />

(SCI)). (Sierra de Aracena and Picos de<br />

52 #<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong>


Culture, cuisine and traditions<br />

Aroche Nature Park, Sierra Norte of Seville<br />

Nature Park, Sierra de Hornachuelos<br />

Nature Park, Sierra de Cardeña-Montoro<br />

Nature Park, Sierra de Andujar Nature Park,<br />

Despeñaperros Nature Park)<br />

u 3 Parks that have been declared to be<br />

Reserves of the Biosphere "Dehesas de<br />

Sierra Morena" (Sierra de Hornachuelos, Sierra<br />

Norte of Seville, Sierra de Aracena and<br />

Picos de Aroche)<br />

u 3 Nature Areas (la Cimbarra waterfall, Las<br />

Peñas de Aroche and Sierra Pelada<br />

and Rivera del Aserrador)<br />

u 5 Natural landscape monuments (the<br />

Organs of Despeñaperros, Cerro del Hierro,<br />

Huéznar waterfall, the oak trees in the de<br />

San Francisco meadows and the loop in the<br />

Guadalquivir river at Montoro)<br />

u The Puerto Moral Nature Reserve in Aroche<br />

(Huelva).<br />

Installations for public use<br />

u Visitors’ Centres<br />

u Nature classrooms<br />

u Pathways<br />

u Recreation areas<br />

u Farm schools<br />

u Vantage points<br />

u Museums<br />

u Camping areas.<br />

#<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong> 53


Sierra Morena<br />

Typical landscape of Sierra Morena. Photo: © Rafael Romero<br />

54 #<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong>


Internet links<br />

ADIT Sierra Morena<br />

http://www.sierramorena.com/<br />

Geographic area of Sierra Morena<br />

http://www.sierramorena.com/pdt_ambito.php<br />

Municipalities of the Sierra Morena<br />

http://www.sierramorena.com/municipios.php<br />

Route of the GR-48<br />

http://senderogr48.sierramorena.com/itinerario/<br />

Birdwatching and nature routes in the Sierra<br />

de Aracena and Picos de Aroche<br />

http://birdingandalusia.sierramorena.com/?page_id=78<br />

Birdwatching and nature routes in the Sierra<br />

Morena in the province of Seville<br />

http://birdingandalusia.sierramorena.com/?page_id=1484<br />

Birdwatching and nature routes in the Sierra<br />

Morena in the province of Córdoba<br />

http://birdingandalusia.sierramorena.com/?page_id=1486<br />

Birdwatching and nature routes in the Sierra<br />

Morena in the province of Jaén<br />

http://birdingandalusia.sierramorena.com/?page_id=41<br />

Bird guide in Sierra Morena<br />

http://birdingandalusia.sierramorena.com/?page_id=2519<br />

The MITO website<br />

http://birdingandalusia.sierramorena.com/?page_id=2550<br />

Further information on accommodation on<br />

the MITO website<br />

http://birdingandalusia.sierramorena.com/?page_id=2412<br />

Further information on the adventure holiday<br />

businesses on the MITO website<br />

http://birdingandalusia.sierramorena.com/?page_id=2566<br />

Vantage points<br />

http://www.sierramorena.com/lista_espaciosnaturales.php?tipo=Mirador<br />

Places of interest in the Sierra Morena<br />

http://www.sierramorena.com/sitios_interes.php<br />

Accommodation in Sierra Morena<br />

http://www.sierramorena.com/alojamientos.php<br />

Festivals and Traditions in Sierra Morena<br />

http://www.sierramorena.com/fiestas.php<br />

Association for the Integral Development<br />

of the Territory of Sierra Morena (ADIT Sierra<br />

Morena), it is a non-profit making entity<br />

promoted by the Rural Development Group<br />

of the Sierra de Aracena and Picos de Aroche,<br />

Association Group for Rural Development<br />

of the Sierra Morena in the province<br />

of Seville, Association for the Rural Development<br />

of Sierra Morena in the province of<br />

Córdoba and the Association for the Rural<br />

Development of the Campiña Norte in the<br />

province of Jaén and integrated public<br />

and private businesses and institutions in the<br />

provinces of Huelva, Seville, Córdoba and<br />

Jaén.<br />

Sierra de Andújar<br />

http://goo.gl/l5izRh<br />

Despeñaperros<br />

http://goo.gl/M3khPq<br />

Sierra de Cardeña-Montoro<br />

http://goo.gl/wT7QUU<br />

Sierra de Hornachuelos<br />

http://goo.gl/pmQvMl<br />

Sierra Norte in the province of Seville<br />

http://goo.gl/2dlg17<br />

Sierra de Aracena and Picos de Aroche<br />

http://goo.gl/lxEsAN<br />

Recreation areas<br />

http://www.sierramorena.com/lista_espaciosnaturales.php?tipo=%C1rea%20Recreativa<br />

#<strong>eco</strong><strong>tourism</strong> 55

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