Fjord fiesta - Scanorama

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FJORD FIESTA No landlubber: Noralf Reitun has been trawling the waters off Kristiansund for almost 35 years, but has yet to get around to driving the Atlantic Road region. A bare cliff plunging into a fjord takes me back to Bohuslän on Sweden’s west coast. The next fjord could be Lake Como. As we approach a small white timber church at the foot of a mountain, it reminds us of a mission chapel in the southern Appalachian Mountains. Work began on Trollstigen (the “Troll’s Path”) in the late 1920s, and the road was opened by King Haakon VII in 1936. The 11 winding hairpin bends climbing out of the Ister Valley cut hours off your journey time compared with driving around the Trolltindene mountain range. Our tiny car puffs and pants up to the highest point 850 meters above sea level. When we left Åndalsnes and Ister Valley 30 minutes ago, it was a gorgeous fall day and 15C. The temperature falls 1C with every U-turn. When we reach the lookouts at the top, it is a cold early winter’s day and 3C. On the western side of Trollstigen is Trollveggen, Europe’s tallest rock face, almost 1,000 meters straight down. As we continue south through Norddal, the late-summer green gives way to rich autumnal mustard- yellow. We sit in silence for a while, having run out of words to describe our surroundings. “Oh my God, how beautiful” just doesn’t do it anymore. At a waterfall streaming down a mountainside, we start laughing. In the face of such majesty all we can do is laugh. For the first time in three days of nonstop driving it is time to fill up the car. In a country where gas costs $3 a liter and a speeding ticket can easily top $3,500, the editor’s choice of car – slow, fuelefficient – suddenly makes sense. 54 FEBRUARY 2013 SCANORAMA
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