Fjord fiesta - Scanorama

scanorama’s Stockholm
The street
Krukmakargatan
This street at the heart
of trendy Södermalm is
the preferred address
for independent fashion
retailers such as Nitty
Gritty – Isabel Marant and
House of Dagmar, among
others – and menswear
label Our Legacy. Wigerdals
Värld and Brandstationen
stockpile vintage furniture
and accessories, including
men’s watches and toys, while
Papercut has a well-edited
selection of magazines, books
and DVDs.
www.nittygrittystore.com
www.ourlegacy.se
www.wigerdal.com
www.papercutshop.se
R&R
Nordic Spa at the
Grand Hôtel
This is your one-stop shop
for beauty treatments,
massage and the Nordic
Bathing Ritual – a birch
sauna followed by a dip in an
ice-cold pool that is sure to
banish jet lag.
www.grandhotel.se
Restaurants
Nordic Spa
Classic
Tennstopet
A change of ownership has
done nothing to diminish
the old-world charm of this
cherished haunt of writers
and artists. It still feels like
the home of an elderly relative,
crammed with curios
and memories. Go for the Biff
Rydberg (diced steak with
fried potatoes and onion).
www.tennstopet.se
New Nordic
Gastrologik
Only the day’s ingredients are
revealed at this ultra-refined
newcomer to Stockholm’s
fine dining scene. Guests
simply opt for either three
or six courses and wait to see
what unfolds, from deepfried
dill and fennel flowers
in sourdough to spruce
shoots in aquavit and parsnip
ice cream.
www.gastrologik.se
Hip and happening
Taverna Brillo
An ice cream parlor, pizzeria,
bar, deli and bakery sit side
by side in this bustling Italian
restaurant-cum-food court,
which opened its doors to
immediate acclaim at the
end of last year. Try a clam,
mint, coriander, chili and
lime pizza – or enjoy a glass
of wine and cold cuts at
the bar.
www.tavernabrillo.se
Family friendly
Boqueria
Cool, informal and buzzing,
this tapas bar is the perfect
setting for a family gathering
with porchetta, pimientos de
padron (fried peppers) and
beet salad with hazelnuts
and chèvre among the small
plates whizzing out of the
open kitchen.
www.boqueria.se
After work
AG
A buzzing bar, killer
hamburgers, tapas and an
industrial chic space with
exposed vents and white tiles
signed Jonas Bohlin (who
also designed Sturehof, Riche
and Stadshuskällaren) make
this former silver factory the
perfect hangout after a tough
day at the office.
www.restaurangag.se
Cocktails
Svartengrens
Mixology tends to be
a man’s world, but at
Tennstopet
Svartengrens women rule
the bar. Madeleine Rapp
and Josephine Sondlo more
than hold their own in the
art of cocktail-making, with
creations built on seasonal
ingredients. Try the Alibi
(cognac, Bénédictine, lemon,
sugar, egg white and soda).
www.svartengrens.se
Late night
Lilla Baren
at Riche
A perennial favorite among
the city’s media, art and
fashion crowd, Riche’s
backroom is always packed.
Check the website to see
who’s playing.
www.riche.se
Culture
Museums
Fotografiska
In just a couple of years,
this museum housed in an
art nouveau customs house
by the water has rapidly
developed into Sweden’s
focal point for photography.
Recent exhibitions include
David LaChapelle and Anton
Corbijn.
www.fotografiska.eu
Galleries
Lars Bohman
Gallery
Representing among
others Bjarne Mellgard,
Johan & Nyström
Coffee culture
Swedes are crazy about coffee
– most drink at least
five cups a day – and there’s
even a verb for having it.
Fika, though, means so much
more than just taking a coffee
break. Used as an excuse
to meet up, chat and, more
often than not, a timeout
from work, fika usually entails
something sweet to go with
your brew such as cinnamon
buns or bondkakor (farmer
cookies). Some cafés even
double as offices.
Traditional fika: Vetekatten.
www.vetekatten.se
Specialty coffees: Johan
& Nyström. johanochnystrom.se
Coffee bar/office: Coffice.
www.coffice.coop
Ernst Billgren and Maria
Miesenberger, this gallery in
a converted warehouse on
chic Östermalm is a muststop
when Stockholm’s art
lovers do their Saturday
rounds.
www.larsbohmangallery.com
u
mattias edwall, camilla lindqvist
64 february 2013 Scanorama