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The Compleat Distiller

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THE COMPLEAT DISTILLER 45<br />

You can build a boiler from a wide variety of containers, so long as they are sturdy, can be tightly<br />

sealed, and either set on a hotplate or fitted with an immersion element, jacket or coil. People have<br />

used pots and pans, stainless steel milk cans, commercial beer kegs, and even a vacuum cleaner! In<br />

general, stainless steel is an ideal material for a boiler, but any material can be used that will stand up to<br />

the temperatures and conditions of distilling without leaching any flavors or odors into the liquid or<br />

vapor. Use your imagination, but always remember that the boiler must be capable of safely holding<br />

boiling liquid for long periods of time.<br />

Most of the vessels you adapt for a boiler will require some modification so you can attach a condenser<br />

or a column. <strong>The</strong> most common practice is to weld or solder a connecting device to the lid. Common<br />

connectors include threaded joints, plumbing unions, flanges, and slip fittings. Many people fasten the<br />

column or condenser directly to the lid, but this reduces future flexibility in how the still will be used.<br />

Pot on a hotplate<br />

We mentioned several types of boiler in chapter 3, but a simple pot on a hotplate is by far the most<br />

common in amateur distilling. <strong>The</strong> pot on a hotplate approach can range from a standard kitchen pot or<br />

pressure cooker on a kitchen stove up to large pots (eg a 55 gallon drum) set on an industrial cooker.<br />

This design can also be used to provide semi-indirect heat by placing the actual boiler inside a larger<br />

pot, filling the space between the pots with a heat-transfer liquid (Water, salt water, glycerin and<br />

propylene glycol are all popular choices), and heating the outer pot with the hotplate.<br />

Cheap hotplates are usually controlled by thermostats, which can result in uneven, or surge, boiling.<br />

You can overcome this by using a heat diffuser. A thick cast-iron skillet, or a sheet of steel about 1cm<br />

(1/2 inch) thick should be fine. <strong>The</strong> metal plate acts as a heat reservoir to smooth out temperature<br />

swings. Should hot spots persist, adding a wire screen between the metal plate and the pot introduces a<br />

thin layer of air that will further smooth out the distribution of heat. Wire mesh is often used in<br />

laboratories to spread the heat from a flame, and the combination of metal plate and trapped air is used<br />

in good kitchen pots whose thick bottoms have concentric grooves machined in them.<br />

Sand beds are another simple and effective way of controlling heat flow, and are often used in<br />

laboratories. <strong>The</strong>y are used to provide physical support and close contact with objects that are not flat,<br />

like round-bottomed flasks. Just fill a flat-bottomed, shallow metal container with 2 to 4 cm (1 to 2<br />

inches) of fine, dry sand, and sit the boiler into it. CAUTION! <strong>The</strong> sand will get extremely hot, and<br />

can cause nasty burns in an instant.<br />

A hotplate with a heat spreader is the simplest and least expensive way of heating a boiler in a<br />

controlled manner.<br />

Standard cooking pots will work well, but often require some extra work to make a vapor-tight seal, as<br />

described earlier in this chapter. Pressure cookers are often used, especially for simple pot stills,<br />

because they come with both a tightly sealing lid and a vapor outlet (the nozzle that the pressure control<br />

dingus sits on).<br />

Used stainless steel milk cans and beer kegs are often available, and can be an attractive choice because<br />

they are very rugged and well sealed. Milk cans have a tightly fitting, removable lid about 18cm (7<br />

inches) in diameter. Beer kegs have a much smaller opening, and this makes filling, emptying and<br />

cleaning more difficult.<br />

Slightly Modified Consumer Goods<br />

Another simple approach is to find and modify a piece of equipment that already exists. A wide variety<br />

of electric soup kettles, deep fryers and coffee urns are available, and most of them have heat capacities<br />

in the correct range. Probably the easiest item to modify for a boiler is the 14-20 liter (60-80cup)<br />

coffee urn. This usually has two concealed heating elements, one for quick heat up and the other for<br />

keeping the coffee hot. All you need to do is remove the percolator basket, improve the sealing of the<br />

lid, and replace the thermostat with a switch. <strong>The</strong> lid usually has an opening in the center that you can<br />

easily modify to attach the condenser or column.

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