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The Compleat Distiller

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THE COMPLEAT DISTILLER 76<br />

Beyond this, we don't want to belabor the point. Good safety equipment is no substitute for common<br />

sense! If you develop your workshop beyond the basics, then you will be bombarded with sound safety<br />

advice from other sources, be it from the manufactures of the equipment you buy, or from instructors at<br />

classes you may attend.<br />

However, we'd like to add just one word of caution. In any activity or line of work, the most dangerous<br />

phase is after you develop skills and familiarity, and caution begins to lapse. Many people have been<br />

badly hurt or killed by bad habits that built up bit by bit as they gained confidence and experience. Be<br />

forewarned, and guard against this tendency.<br />

Some basic requirements<br />

What do you need to get started? A place to work, something to hold the pieces being worked on, and<br />

a few basic tools will allow you to make a surprising number of quite complicated things. Of course,<br />

the better the workspace and the tools, the easier many tasks will become. As with all hobbies, it is<br />

best to start with the basics and try your hand. If you are having fun and making progress, you will<br />

find it far easier to justify each acquisition of more and better tools and equipment.<br />

<strong>The</strong> following list of tools is basic, and by no means comprehensive. You may need only a few of<br />

them, so we've tried to give the list some sort of "priority" based on what we find useful. Your<br />

priorities may be different, depending on what you're trying to do.<br />

• Safety goggles<br />

• Ruler, marked in both inches and centimeters.<br />

• Hacksaw, with fine metal-cutting blade.<br />

• Screwdrivers, both flat and Phillips head (cross-head).<br />

• Hammer.<br />

• Pliers − especially a set of waterman’s pliers (slip-joint type)<br />

• Leather workshop gloves (use them when handling hot components)<br />

• Vice and/or a couple of vise-grip pliers.<br />

• Hand drill, preferably a rechargeable hand-held electric drill.<br />

• Files, as many different types as you can get.<br />

• Adjustable wrench.<br />

• Emery paper − rough and fine grades.<br />

• Center punch.<br />

• A set of good quality drill bits, both metric and inch sizes<br />

• Hand-held propane torch<br />

• Lead-free solder and flux.<br />

• Wire brush.<br />

• Carpenter’s square.<br />

• Wood saw.<br />

• Vernier calipers (extremely useful for measuring tubing − cheap yet accurate digital ones are<br />

widely available).<br />

Add to this one of those folding "Workhorse" benches if your space is limited. <strong>The</strong>se are the type<br />

which feature a "vise top", and are sometimes called "mitre benches", with guides for angle cuts.<br />

<strong>The</strong> hand drill is the only power tool you may need at first. If you take on many projects, you will<br />

quickly want to move up to a good quality drill press. By the time you get around to lathes, milling<br />

machines and welding gear, you'll probably be able to teach us a few things about workshop<br />

techniques!<br />

One readily available tool that will allow an amateur to “fudge” a little or a lot is a Dremel® Moto-<br />

Tool. This is a very small handheld cylinder with a rotating shaft that spins about 30,000 rpm. Many<br />

cutting wheels, brushes, grinders of various shapes, buffers, etc are available. With a little ingenuity<br />

you can do almost anything with it. It's so compact, you can put it away in a drawer for storage.

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