2 - Weaver Leather

Leather Shopper
31
Advice from Paul Weaver on
Choosing the Best Leather
To ensure you get the right leather for your needs,
I recommend you ask yourself the following questions:
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What should my finished product
look like?
I recommend thinking about who will use
the product and how they will use it. This
is always a great way to get some insight
into how the product should look and help
you in choosing a compatible leather.
What strength and stretch tolerances
should the leather have?
When strength is considered a major
factor, I recommend using full thickness
leathers like skirting and harness as well
as unsplit latigo and bridle leathers.
Unsplit leathers are stronger and do not
stretch as much as split leathers because
all the fibers remain intact and are
not weakened by the splitting process.
Please remember that leather is a
natural material that’s not intended
for use on products that carry a high
liability or require a certification of
tensile strength.
Will I need to mould, case, tool,
stamp, curve or carve this leather?
If these techniques are to be used, a dry
leather such as skirting, strap or regular
bridle leather is your best choice. I do not
recommend using regular bridle leather for
tooling however.
What finish should the leather have?
When moulding, stamping or tooling,
you’ll usually put your own finish on the
leather. If not, you should purchase a
leather that’s already been finished by the
tannery. The tannery can drum dye or
spray the leather in a controlled environment
for a professional, consistent finish.
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Will the product be used indoors
or outdoors?
For products exposed to harsh conditions,
I recommend a hot stuffed leather like
harness, latigo or “English” bridle leather.
If you’re moulding or stamping or using a
dry leather like skirting, be sure to apply
oils, dyes and dressings to help prevent
drying out and cracking. For products not
exposed to harsh conditions, I’ve found
that regular strap, bridle and chrome
tanned leather usually work fine. For extra
protection and long life, I recommend
using leather care and conditioning
products on all items.
What price can I pay for my leather
and still be profitable?
Your selling price will largely determine
what you can afford to spend on leather
and still make a profit. By using the right
cut and grade of leather, you give your
customers the desired quality and value
and still have room for your profit margin.
What cut of leather is best suited for
making the product?
The total size of your product along with the
total number of individual pieces you are
making will determine the cut of leather you
should use. For example, I recommend
sides for products with smaller straps
including 12" x 12" patterns and items that
need extra length. Backs and bends are
perfect for products that require the best
cut of leather and the least amount of stretch.
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How much leather do I need to
complete this project?
To ensure all your leather has the same
weight and finish, be sure to order an
adequate quantity of leather including your
waste factor. By planning ahead and placing
one larger order instead of many smaller
orders, you may be able to take advantage
of mix and match pricing and reduce your
costs in the long run.
Can I duplicate or improve the leather
and craftsmanship of the prototype?
Always make sure your customer knows
what to expect and be honest about what
you can and cannot do. If the job requires
tools you don’t have, figure out if it’s
feasible to buy them. I invite you to send
us a leather swatch to make sure the leather
you purchase is correct for your needs.
Is this going to be a one-time custom
job or an ongoing job?
This will have a great influence on the
price and type of leather that you buy.
Your buying power is greater when you’re
producing an ongoing job or a large
quantity of products. When you buy in
larger quantities, your cost per side goes
down and any left over materials can be
used for the next run of products for an
ongoing job.
Products in this catalog feature wholesale pricing.
Due to market demands, leather prices
are subject to change without notice.
LEATHER CONVERSION CHART
®
Fractional Decimal
Ounces Irons Inches Inches Millimeters
1 oz. 0.75 1/64 0.016 0.41 mm
2 oz. 1.50 1/32 0.031 0.78 mm
3 oz. 2.25 3/64 0.047 1.19 mm
4 oz. 3.00 1/16 0.063 1.60 mm
5 oz. 3.75 5/64 0.078 1.98 mm
Fractional Decimal
Ounces Irons Inches Inches Millimeters
9 oz. 6.75 9/64 0.141 3.58 mm
10 oz. 7.50 5/32 0.156 3.96 mm
11 oz. 8.25 11/64 0.172 4.37 mm
12 oz. 9.00 3/16 0.188 4.78 mm
13 oz. 9.75 13/64 0.203 5.17 mm
The Leather Conversion Chart (left)
shows the thickness of various
weights of leather.
Every ounce is equal to 1/64" in
thickness. Leather always has slight
variations in thickness. As a result,
leather hides will seldom measure
to the exact 1/64" throughout. Hides
run through a splitting machine have
greater (but not perfect) uniformity.
Just remember, the heavier the
ounces, the thicker the leather.
®
6 oz. 4.50 3/32 0.094 2.39 mm
7 oz. 5.25 7/64 0.109 2.78 mm
14 oz. 10.50 7/32 0.219 5.57 mm
15 oz. 11.25 15/64 0.234 5.95 mm
Satisfaction
Guaranteed
®
8 oz. 6.00 1/8 0.125 3.18 mm
16 oz. 12.00 1/4 0.250 6.36 mm
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®