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jewish cemeteries, synagogues, and mass grave sites in ukraine

jewish cemeteries, synagogues, and mass grave sites in ukraine

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The condition of the <strong>sites</strong> surveyed ranged from good to deplorable. Site researchers catalogued<br />

a variety of threats, from overgrown vegetation <strong>and</strong> erosion, to v<strong>and</strong>alism, pollution, <strong>and</strong> nearby<br />

development.<br />

Conduct<strong>in</strong>g this survey was a difficult task. Researchers trekked from village to village, often<br />

unsure of the reception they would receive, <strong>and</strong> always uncerta<strong>in</strong> about what remnants of the<br />

Jewish past they would f<strong>in</strong>d. In the words of E. Sokilova, JPCU Survey Coord<strong>in</strong>ator for the<br />

oblasts of Kyiv, Chernihiv, Poltava, <strong>and</strong> V<strong>in</strong>nytsia:<br />

All the time I had an impression of see<strong>in</strong>g ‘ru<strong>in</strong>s of Rome.’ The whole social-<strong>and</strong>-cultural layer<br />

of the Jewish shtetl has vanished. Only where some reasonable number of Jews still live can one<br />

f<strong>in</strong>d ‘isles’ of the mostly-vanished past. The once flourish<strong>in</strong>g shtetls have become ord<strong>in</strong>ary<br />

villages, sovkhoses, kolkhoses, etc. Even buses only go there one or two times a week from the<br />

regional center. Other days, one must get there only by hitchhik<strong>in</strong>g, <strong>and</strong> it is possible only <strong>in</strong><br />

good weather. One cannot imag<strong>in</strong>e how many times I had to get to a village us<strong>in</strong>g a bread carrier,<br />

or a milk carrier, or a tractor, to say noth<strong>in</strong>g about horses, because the only bus route was<br />

canceled because of lack of gasol<strong>in</strong>e. The risk of be<strong>in</strong>g stuck <strong>in</strong> some out-of-the-way place was<br />

always with me.<br />

I.2 Recent <strong>and</strong> Current Efforts to Document Jewish Sites<br />

S<strong>in</strong>ce the rebirth of Jewish communal life <strong>in</strong> the area of the former Soviet Union, several<br />

different projects have been <strong>in</strong>itiated to help preserve Jewish <strong>sites</strong> throughout Ukra<strong>in</strong>e.<br />

The Government of Ukra<strong>in</strong>e has pledged its help <strong>in</strong> restor<strong>in</strong>g certa<strong>in</strong> Jewish <strong>sites</strong>, especially<br />

some of the larger <strong>synagogues</strong>, which have architectural <strong>and</strong> historical significance. None have<br />

been completed however.<br />

The Ukra<strong>in</strong>ian L<strong>and</strong>marks Preservation Society has done some prelim<strong>in</strong>ary survey work, ma<strong>in</strong>ly<br />

around the Lviv region. It began work on the reconstruction of the Brody synagogue <strong>in</strong> the late<br />

1980s or early 1990s, but this work has been halted for many years (figures 8 & 9).<br />

Recently, test excavations were undertaken on the site of the former Jewish “court” <strong>in</strong> Belz. In<br />

addition, the municipality of Zhovkva is undertak<strong>in</strong>g the restoration of the 17 th century<br />

synagogue <strong>in</strong> that town (figures 42, 43 & 44) which will serve as a regional Jewish museum.<br />

The project has received fund<strong>in</strong>g from the World Monuments Fund, a private New York-based<br />

historic preservation organization, <strong>and</strong> the Ukra<strong>in</strong>ian government. The project, however, is still<br />

<strong>in</strong> its early stages. 3<br />

3 The synagogue was listed by the World Monuments Fund on its list of 100 most endangered <strong>sites</strong> for 2000. See<br />

WMF’s Web site: www.wmf.org, <strong>and</strong> “Zhovkva Synagogue: Future Museum of Galician Jewry?” <strong>in</strong> Jewish<br />

Heritage Report, II:3-4 (1998-1999).<br />

2

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