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super-agile Bluehead (Thalassoma bifasciatum) and the<br />

Creole Wrasse (Clepticus parrae), provide flashes of color<br />

on the reefs. The Hogfish (Lachnolaimus maximus) is notable<br />

due to its size. It is hard to believe that the bright<br />

yellow juvenile form of the Blue Tang (Acanthurus coeruleus)<br />

will eventually change into the equally attractive<br />

adult. On the other hand, the yellow of the Trumpetfish<br />

(Aulostomus maculatus) was purely temporary; normally<br />

the species is reddish brown.<br />

Ungainly swimmers such as the Smooth Trunkfish<br />

(Lactophrys triqueter) and the Bridled Burrfish (Chilomycterus<br />

antennatus) prefer to stay under cover. Circumspection<br />

is also beneficial to particularly small fishes, such<br />

as the Peppermint Goby (Coryphopterus lipernes), the<br />

Cleaner Goby (Gobiosoma genie), the Roughhead Blenny<br />

(Acanthemblemaria aspera), and the Redlip Blenny (Ophioblennius<br />

atlanticus). Naturally there are also numerous<br />

invertebrates—shrimps, crabs and lobsters, nudibranchs,<br />

and sea urchins, to mention just a few groups.<br />

HARD TO GET USED TO<br />

But the real attractions of the Jardines de la Reina are<br />

the big fishes whose size far exceeds the capacity of a domestic<br />

aquarium: the massive groupers and streamlined<br />

sharks that we encountered at close quarters, with no<br />

protective pane of glass. There was a simple reason why<br />

these fishes, which normally keep their distance, had lost<br />

their timidity: for many years these huge fishes have been<br />

lured to the area by regular feeding by visitors. This is disappointing<br />

in the sense that the fishes no longer exhibit<br />

their natural behaviors, but on the other hand, divers<br />

have the rare opportunity to see these impressive hunters<br />

up close on almost every dive.<br />

When we arrived at a dive site after a quick tour<br />

through the mangrove zone in the boat, the sharks would<br />

usually already be there. Most of the “powerpacks” doing<br />

their rounds near the surface were larger than we were.<br />

This might give a novice pause before he falls backward<br />

from the safety of the gunwale into the company of the<br />

predators, but these sharks prefer to eat fish—people<br />

aren’t on their list of prey. And their finely tuned senses<br />

allow them to distinguish one from the other very well. In<br />

fact, our noisy arrival is more likely to scare them away,<br />

even though they are presumably used to us by now.<br />

Regardless of which dive site we visited, there were<br />

Silky Sharks (Carcharhinus falciformes), Caribbean Reef<br />

Sharks (Carcharhinus perezi), or both in attendance. As<br />

we followed the face of the reef downward, the unusual<br />

assembly “upstairs” gradually broke up and moved away,<br />

and soon the fishes were ranging further afield in deeper<br />

regions. They kept on disappearing from our field of<br />

view, only to return again before long.<br />

We often encountered Black Groupers (Mycteroperca<br />

bonaci), whose flight distance is less than that required<br />

to fill the viewfinder of the camera. Sometimes these respectably<br />

sized fishes had a pattern of red-brown spots,<br />

but the black edge of the caudal fin was a reliable diagnostic<br />

character. The less common Nassau Grouper<br />

(Epinephelus striatus), with its unmistakable pattern of<br />

stripes, was less bulky in appearance. But the most impressive<br />

member of this group was the Goliath Grouper<br />

(Epinephelus itajara). The longest of them was almost<br />

The invasive Red or Volitans Lionfish (Pterois<br />

volitans) is as common in some parts of the<br />

Caribbean as it is in its natural range.<br />

98 CORAL

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