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faience and glass beads from the late bronze - Department of ...

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9woman; this collar is composed <strong>of</strong> multiple str<strong>and</strong>s <strong>of</strong> <strong>beads</strong> with a large, pendulumshapedcounterpoise. 47The presence <strong>of</strong> <strong>glass</strong> <strong>and</strong> beadmaking factories at <strong>the</strong> royal city<strong>of</strong> Amarna demonstrates a link between <strong>the</strong> palace <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong> production <strong>of</strong> beadedjewelry. 48Fur<strong>the</strong>rmore, some Egyptian tomb paintings show beaded necklaces among<strong>the</strong> gifts presented to <strong>the</strong> king by foreigners, confirming that <strong>beads</strong> were an element <strong>of</strong>Late Bronze Age palatial gift exchange. 49Because costly <strong>and</strong> elaborate beaded jewelry “…could not be displayed on anyscale <strong>of</strong> magnificence except as <strong>the</strong> rewards <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> king…”, 50 such jewelry wouldindicate favor with <strong>the</strong> king <strong>and</strong> <strong>the</strong>reby impart to <strong>the</strong> wearer a certain status. Usekhcollars were at times a royal reward, given by <strong>the</strong> pharaoh to courtiers or servants;Egyptian nobility mirrored this action, giving usekh collars to <strong>the</strong>ir servants as well as to<strong>the</strong> pharaoh. 51A specific type <strong>of</strong> royal reward during <strong>the</strong> 18 th -22 nd Dynasties was <strong>the</strong>shebyu collar, given to both men <strong>and</strong> women for military or civil service. 52The shebyucollar is composed <strong>of</strong> multiple rows <strong>of</strong> gold disk <strong>beads</strong>, 53 although similar collars,possibly imitations, were made <strong>of</strong> <strong>faience</strong>. 54Beaded jewelry also indicated social status in western Asia, <strong>and</strong> governors orprinces <strong>of</strong> Susa characteristically wore necklaces composed <strong>of</strong> large <strong>beads</strong>. 55Beadswere also worn by elite women, as evidenced by <strong>the</strong> inclusion <strong>of</strong> str<strong>and</strong>s <strong>of</strong> <strong>beads</strong> in <strong>the</strong>47 Andrews 1991, 185.48 Petrie 1974, 25-7.49 Davies 1933, 3-8, pls. IV-V; Davies 1935, pls. I, IV, V, XXII.50 Aldred 1971, 18.51 Wilkinson 1971, 7-9, 32-3.52 Wilkinson 1971, 9.53 Andrews 1991, 181.54 Wilkinson 1971, 108.55 Maxwell-Hyslop 1971, 95.

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