Butternut Bowl Continuedfrom Previous Pageas it sticks to itself even months laterwith no “cold” joint.A quarter on <strong>the</strong> outer rim givesa sense <strong>of</strong> scale. Note <strong>the</strong> whitecenter area where decay has takenhold, leaving many small voids; seeFig #5 close-up.Fig. 4Fig. 5<strong>The</strong>re were a number <strong>of</strong> optionsat this point. One, I could apply lacquerto both fill <strong>the</strong> tiny voids and toprovide stiffness to <strong>the</strong> wood fibersduring <strong>the</strong> next phase <strong>of</strong> turning.Two, I could fill this area, and anysmall bug holes, with fine sandingdust and glue. I could use dust thatis whitish from this area, or from adarker area. <strong>The</strong> results would ei<strong>the</strong>rmake <strong>the</strong> lighter area more apparent,or cause it to blend with <strong>the</strong> darkerarea. It is a matter <strong>of</strong> artistic taste.Third, I could scrub in a thin coating<strong>of</strong> EZ Poly in its natu- ral light tan,or by adding powdered colors, evenlike red, to show stark contrast.At this point I stopped to pondermy options, and turned attentionto <strong>the</strong> inside. Ano<strong>the</strong>r reasonto work <strong>the</strong> outside and <strong>the</strong>n <strong>the</strong>inside, in damaged wood like this,is to uncover any more problemareas and determine if <strong>the</strong>y shouldbe dealt with by thinning on <strong>the</strong>inside vs. <strong>the</strong> outside <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> vessel.Figure #6 shows <strong>the</strong> inside, withsome cuts having run from edgethrough inner center. And, <strong>the</strong> start<strong>of</strong> thinning at <strong>the</strong> edge is shown.This is where thinning shouldstart as it allows <strong>the</strong> greater mass<strong>of</strong> wood to exist toward <strong>the</strong> centerand middle to support <strong>the</strong> thinningedge. A quarters shows scale.Two EZ Poly filled voids areshown. <strong>The</strong> rim is undercut using<strong>the</strong> round carbide cutter toolsnow on <strong>the</strong> market, making suchcuts quite easy without bendingfar across <strong>the</strong> la<strong>the</strong> bed. On largerbowls this sort <strong>of</strong> rim also providesa better thumb grip when carrying<strong>the</strong> filled bowl. Depending on <strong>the</strong>shape <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> outer rim, that areacan become a place for decorativegrooves, gold leafing, etc..Fig. 6After an evening’s reflection Idecided to fill <strong>the</strong> small voids withEZ Poly, adding sanding dust fromthis vessel. About 1/2 oz. <strong>of</strong> EZPoly was mixed with a teaspoonfull <strong>of</strong> light dust, and applied witha putty knife, using small strokesand pressing <strong>the</strong> mix into <strong>the</strong>voids firmly. Figure 8 shows whatit looked like at this point...a bitghastly.Figure 7. Shows my roundcarbide cutter coming up andunder <strong>the</strong> rim.I could have started sandingafter 2 hours, but waited until nextmorning. 60 grit on a 5” cush- ionedpad, in my drill, cut through <strong>the</strong> EZPoly easily. When wood began toshow I moved <strong>the</strong> sander onto more<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> EZ Poly.<strong>The</strong> next step was touse finer grits andunveil what might be<strong>the</strong> final appearance.<strong>The</strong> next step was to use finergrits and unveil what might be <strong>the</strong>final appearance. Figure 9 showsthis as work in progress. <strong>The</strong> centerarea has been sanded down to 220grit. You can see <strong>the</strong> lighter coloredvoids. Two <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> black EZ Polypatches have a coating <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> lighterEZ Poly. <strong>The</strong> still unsanded EZ Polyis at top and left sides.<strong>The</strong> feel <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> surface in <strong>the</strong>well sanded areas is very smooth.At this point I could finish sanding<strong>the</strong> whole outside and, if I like, apply<strong>the</strong> final finish, like lacquer. Icould also decide to turn and sandthrough <strong>the</strong> now firmed up decayedareas and see if better wood mightshow. <strong>The</strong> risk is that <strong>the</strong> decay willgo all <strong>the</strong> way through to <strong>the</strong> inside,Page 12 More Woodturning August <strong>2009</strong>
which is probable, leading to greaterproblems or a lost vessel.Figure #10 shows a coat <strong>of</strong>lacquer applied and buffed with aScotchbrite© pad. This leaves aninteresting effect and would raisediscussion with a potential buyer.A final coat <strong>of</strong> lacquer followed bybuffed wax is likely. Attention wasnext turned to bringing <strong>the</strong> inside<strong>of</strong> this bowl to proper form anddealing with uncovered imperfections.<strong>The</strong> next evening I had timeto commence hollowing <strong>the</strong> inside,starting at <strong>the</strong> rim area, <strong>the</strong>n workinginto <strong>the</strong> bowl’s depth. Sureenough, as Figure 11 shows, <strong>the</strong>rotted area was found (just beyond<strong>the</strong> tool rest). It appeared worsethan on <strong>the</strong> out- side <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> bowl!Note <strong>the</strong> two EZ Poly patches. AsI brought wall thickness to about1/4” I had to be careful in this areaand refill <strong>the</strong> patched areas.Fig 10Where Turners Turn FirstTo assure even wall thickness, Iadjusted my caliper to <strong>the</strong> thicknessnear <strong>the</strong> rim, and <strong>the</strong>n slowly slid<strong>the</strong> caliper inward toward <strong>the</strong> centeruntil I felt resistance due to thickerwood. At that point I made a chalkmark. I continued moving <strong>the</strong> caliperinward, sensing <strong>the</strong> thickness,and stopped at about an inch and ahalf, again making a chalk mark. SeeFigure 12. <strong>The</strong> area between chalkmarks was for <strong>the</strong> next thinningcuts. By leaning <strong>the</strong> chalk againstINFORMATION AND RESOURCES FORWOODTURNERS WORLDWIDE[Continued onNext Page]Find articles, projects, new products, vendors, club listings,turner websites, courses and schools, discussion forum,books and videos and much more!WWW.WOODTURNINGONLINE.COMFig. 8Fig. 9WOODWORKERS’SEMPORIUMVICMARC5461 Arville StreetLas Vegas, NV, 89118Toll Free 800-779-7458Fax 702-871-0991Stuart Batty-Trent Bosch-Cindy DrozdaKeith Gotshall-Mike Mahoney-David Nittman-Richard RaffanAll reputed woodturners using Vicmarc la<strong>the</strong>s.....shouldn't you?www.woodworkersemporium.comMore Woodturning August <strong>2009</strong> Page 13