___________________________________________________________________________________Major Agronomic Practicescompete with pathogens for nutrients and/or they produce certain substances that reduce pathogensurvival and growth. See section below.• Nitrogen regulator: compared to use of manure, compost prevents the loss of N through ammonia gas(NH 3) by fixing N into organic forms. However, some N is lost through NH 3when compost is turned.Compost reduces N below levels that cause burning of plants. Disadvantages of compost:• Large amount of organic matter required: the ideal amount of compost to apply to a field every year is20 tons/ha (about 2 kg/m 2 ). If a farmer wants to supply that amount of organic matter through onlycompost, a huge amount of organic matter is needed. It is very difficult to collect such amounts oforganic matter because in some cases, crop left-overs are also used to feed farm animals andmanure can be needed for cooking activities. Therefore, in most cases, it will be best to combine useof compost with other fertilization methods such as green manure and mulch.• Nutrient loss: Composting results in loss of nitrogen as ammonia gas (NH 3) when the compost isturned. Also, compost reduces nitrogen availability in comparison to the raw material from which itwas made.• Laborious: the process of making compost takes quite a bit of work as it involves collecting material,making the compost pile, turning the compost and carrying the compost to the field. Therefore it isrecommended that most organic matter be returned as mulch and other, unsuitable material be usedfor compost.• Compost is not as effective as raw organic matter in improving soil structure. As micro-organismswork to decompose raw organic matter, they excrete gels and slimes that bind soil particles togetherand enhance soil structure (modified from Peet, www1).How to prepare compostThere are many theories about the best way to prepare compost. Good thing to remember is: howeverthe compost is made, it will benefit the soil!The simplest method for composting is to pile up organic domestic and field waste material, finallycovering the pile with a layer of soil and possibly straw for insulation. Although many publications adviselayering of materials, the best way is to thoroughly mix plant materials throughout the pile. Use equalproportions of dry and wet material. Dry material such as straw, sawdust, and corn stalks contain littlewater and decompose slowly but they provide air to the pile. Make sure that woody material is choppedinto smaller pieces for quicker decomposition. Wet material such as fresh weeds, crop residue and freshmanure contain more water and decompose quicker than dry materials. Wet materials contain a lot ofnitrogen, and this is food (energy) for micro-organisms. A lot of food stimulates the micro-organisms to“start working” on decomposition quickly.A simple compost pile: organic waste piled on branches, covered with a layer of soil and strawSmall micro-organisms inside the pile will become active in breaking down the organic material. Theseorganisms also need water and air, so do not press the pile into a very compact pile of material! It isrecommended to build the pile on a layer of branches to provide air from underneath and to allowdrainage of the pile during rainfall.23<strong>Eggplant</strong> Ecological Guide
___________________________________________________________________________________Major Agronomic PracticesCompost startersSome sources sell compost starters or compost activators, which they claim are needed to startthe decomposition process (the heating) in a compost pile or to speed up the process. Suchstarters are often composed of high-nitrogen fertilizers, EM supplements or even of dehydratedbacteria. While high-nitrogen fertilizers may be helpful, the benefits of adding more bacteria from apackage have yet to be proven. All the bacteria and other micro-organisms you need are usuallyalready present in the soil under the compost pile and, especially, in the material that you add tothe pile.There is no need to add compost starters with “special” micro-organisms!If you still want to give your compost pile a “boost”, the best source of micro-organisms is finishedcompost. When fresh planting material (green leaves, grasses) are added, there will be enoughnitrogen for the micro-organisms to start decomposing the compost quickly. Fresh manure isanother good source of nitrogen and micro-organisms.During decomposition the temperature inside the pile will rise. It is important to stop adding materials tothe pile at some point to let the micro-organisms do their work. Ideal is when the pile is build up in oneday. When you keep adding materials to the pile, it may take a very long time before the compost can beused and the temperature may not have increased enough to kill possible pathogens and weeds.Temperatures around 80ºC are needed to kill most weed seed.Almost all of the common pathogens in a compost pile will be killed when thetemperature in the whole pile has reached 45 to 65 o C. Exceptions are fungi thatform thick layered spores or resting structures, possibly Fusarium andVerticillium wilt, and Sclerotinia sclerotiorum (not confirmed by research).Farmers in Lam Dong, South Vietnam, made different piles with healthy cropresidues and diseased crop residues for comparison during field studies. Suchstudies are a very good way to find out if certain diseases are destroyed in acompost pile in your conditions.Temperatures of 45-65 o Ckill most of the commonpathogens and pests.Compost thermometerFarmers in Hai Phong, Vietnam, have set up several experiments using compost. Totest if the composting process inside the pile has started, they placed a stick in the pilelike a “thermometer”. They take out the stick and when it is warm, the decompositionhas started. If the stick is still cold after 48 hours, decomposition has not started. Thismeans there may be something wrong in the built of the pile (too compact, too moist,etc). The monitoring of the ‘thermometer’ can be continued daily to check thetemperature rise and fall over time to assess when the decomposition is completed orwhen the pile is ready for turning. A metal rod, placed in the center of the pile, canalso be used as thermometer (pers. comm. Dr. J. Vos, 2000).When a compost pile does not heat up, the problem is either the pile is too small, it is too dry, or it needsmore nitrogen. This can be solved by adding green matter.When the compost has a foul smell, it needs more air and less water. Try turning the pile more often oradd more bulking materials such as straw or corn stalks.The compost pile should be turned a few times (e.g. once every 3 weeks, two times in total). Turningsupplies air, needed by the micro-organisms, into the center of the pile and speeds the decay. Turningalso mixes material from the outside of the pile into the hot center. When the compost is dry, it can bewatered after turning. Cover the pile during rainy periods so it will not get too wet.Compost piles can best be sited in a shady sheltered place to give protection from sun and wind.It is also possible to dig a pit and pile organic waste material in the pit. This may be especially usefulduring the dry season, when the pile inside a pit will remain moister than on flat soil.24<strong>Eggplant</strong> Ecological Guide