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Coastal Resource Guide Pleasant Bay and ... - Town to Chatham

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<strong>Coastal</strong> <strong>Resource</strong> <strong>Guide</strong> for <strong>Pleasant</strong> <strong>Bay</strong> <strong>and</strong> <strong>Chatham</strong> Harborwinter months, while during summer months this s<strong>and</strong> is returned<strong>to</strong> the beach. In general, steeper, high-energy waves during thewinter months cause sediment <strong>to</strong> move seaward <strong>and</strong> the milderlate spring through fall wave climate causes s<strong>and</strong> <strong>to</strong> migrateback on<strong>to</strong> the beach face. The movement of s<strong>and</strong> back <strong>and</strong> forthperpendicular <strong>to</strong> the shoreline is called cross-shore sedimenttransport. This process can be dominant on relatively short beachesbetween sections of erosion-resistant coast, where there is littleopportunity for a strong longshore current <strong>to</strong> be generated. Anexample of an area dominated by this type of transport can bethe coves <strong>and</strong> ponds throughout the bay, or the summer/winterprofiles of the ocean-facing barrier beach.A widened “summer” beach profile at Scatteree will narrow as onshore sediments are moved offshore by winter s<strong>to</strong>rms. Pho<strong>to</strong>: GregBerman4.3.5 Cross-Shore Sediment TransportIn addition <strong>to</strong> s<strong>and</strong> moving parallel <strong>to</strong> the coast, there is alsoa component of transport that moves sediment onshore <strong>and</strong>offshore (i.e., cross-shore transport). A familiar example of this isthe formation of a winter beach profile, where s<strong>and</strong> is moved fromthe dry beach <strong>to</strong> shallow water areas offshore, typically forming anearshore bar. Offshore s<strong>and</strong> migration typically occurs during the4.3.6 Aeolian TransportUnder strong enough winds, the s<strong>and</strong> along the dry beach canbe mobilized <strong>and</strong> carried away from its original location. Thistransport of dry s<strong>and</strong> by wind forces, called aeolian transport, istypically less dominant on an estuarine shoreline due <strong>to</strong> reducedfetch, availability of sediments, <strong>and</strong> dense vegetation. Anyimpediment <strong>to</strong> the s<strong>and</strong>’s movement along the beach can serve <strong>to</strong>limit windblown transport. Fencing <strong>and</strong> beach grass planting arecommon examples of such efforts <strong>to</strong> limit aeolian transport <strong>and</strong>/orencourage the deposition of wind blown s<strong>and</strong>s in specific locationssuch as on an existing dune. An example of an area dominatedby this type of natural transport is the extensive dune system onNauset Beach.17The extensive dune system on Nauset Beach is an example of an area dominated by aeolian transport. Pho<strong>to</strong> by Greg Berman<strong>Pleasant</strong> <strong>Bay</strong> Alliance 2011

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