PRAGUE - Fringe

58 FOOD & DRINK AROUND PRAGUE
Prague is comprised of lively neighbourhoods which can
be as fun and diverting to dine and party in as the Old
Town, and cheaper. The area-based listings enable a night
of dining and drinking with venues that are within walking
distance.
Malá Strana and the castle area are more upmarket than
the Old Town; east of the Old Town lie two excellent residential
districts; Vinohrady, with plenty of trendy venues
and grungy Žižkov, which is for the adventurous. North
of the Old Town, Letná & Holešovice have some gems.
Finally Smíchov, south of Malá Strana, is an upcoming
area for restaurants, bars and clubs.
Malá Strana & The Castle
Gastronomically, Malá Strana (A/B-2/3) and the area
around the castle is a sprucer version of Old Town, with
many upmarket and tourist restaurants, plus great bars
and jazz clubs, but not many clubs. To get there, walk
across Charles Bridge, take the metro to Malostranská or
hop on trams N°18, 22 or 23. Crawl onto night tram N°57
to get back to the Old Town.
American
Cowboys Steaks & Cocktails A-1, Praha 1, Nerudova
40, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 50 50, www.kampagroup.com.
Bazaar has morphed into the Kampa Group’s
sublime version of an American steakhouse. Premium-tequila-laden
cowgirls on the bar, quality and affordable cuts of
steak, seafood and even lobster (1,250Kč), complementary
wine list, myriad salad and side offerings, cool bar, tunes and
atmosphere. A fabulous cellar space, classy design, exellent
cuisine and staff round out another Kampa success. QOpen
12:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. (250 - 750Kč)
ABEIPW
U Malého Glena B-3, Praha 1, Karmelitská 23,
MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 17 17, www.malyglen.cz.
Renowned for the tiny though classy jazz joint downstairs, the
street level bar has entertaining barmen, free-flowing beer
and cocktails, and good food. Czech-Mex standards jostle
for space with salads, sandwiches and hot pitas, although
the menu has no breakfast dishes, except (Bohemia) bagels.
Kitchen closes at 24:00 and 01:00 at weekends. QOpen
09:00 - 02:00. (50 - 300Kc). EP
Balkan
Gitanes A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště 7, MMalostranská, tel.
257 53 01 63, www.gitanes.cz. A vast and fairly expensive
selection of local and international wines precede a vastly
unusual menu for a Prague restaurant. Octopus and mussels
vie for space with veal and lamb, served in a marked Balkan
slant, see sač, kajmak and sarma sauerkraut. QOpen 12:00
- 24:00. (130 - 400Kč). AG
Breakfast
Bohemia Bagel A-4, Praha 1, Újezd 16, MMalostranská,
tel. 257 31 06 94, www.bohemiabagel.cz. This
place is always full to the point of bursting with Americans
satisfying their cravings for authentic bagels. The wake and
bake offer for the breakfast bagel & unlimited coffee/coke is
available till 11:00. Other bagels are available all day. QOpen
07:00 - 24:00. Also at E-2, Praha 1, Masná 2. Open 07:00
- 24:00; Sat, Sun 08:00 - 24:00 & I-6, Praha 2, Tylovo nám.
(50 - 150Kč). BG
Prague In Your Pocket
Symbol key
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
E Live music S Take away
T Child friendly U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking
O Casino M Nearest metro station
R Internet W Wi-Fi 6 Animal friendly
Cafés
Café Savoy G-5, Praha 5, Vítězná 5, MAnděl, tel. 257
31 15 62, www.ambi.cz. A fabulously restored grand café
dating back to 1893 with a particularly stunning neo-Renaissance
ceiling. Sit under the chandeliers to order food from
the café menu with traditional Czech dishes or from the more
elaborate French gourmet menu. Don’t skip the pastries and
cakes that are made on the premises though. Great for a lazy
breakfast with a newspaper too. QOpen 08:00 - 22:30, Sat,
Sun 09:00 - 22:30. (140 - 300Kč). AP
NEW
Cukrkávalimonáda B-2, Praha 1, Lázeňská 7, tel. 257
53 06 28, www.cukrkavalimonada.cz. A small café which
adopts an evening menu at 18:00 and produces delicious
meals such as chicken breast with prosciutto and mozzarella
on balsamic vinegar and fresh baby spinach to go with some
superb (but spendy) new world wines. Daytime offerings are just
as tasty from breakfast to pancakes, sandwiches and homemade
pasta. As relaxed as the tranquil square it is located on.
QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (80 - 350Kč). PG
Downtown Café A/B-4, Praha 1, Újezd 19, MMalostranská,
tel. 257 31 14 11, www.downtowncafe.cz. A
new location for this lovely café with low seats (and some
odd ones), and a semi-open kitchen producing mostly sandwiches,
but we saw a delicious steak being cooked one day.
With DJs playing select nights and the beautiful staff wearing
T-shirts emblazoned with the look better naked and Mecca
logos, Downtown’s role as a pre-party for various club continues.
And it is gay friendly. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
08:30 - 24:30. (85 - 110Kč). ABPW
Kafíčko C-2, Praha 1, Míšeňská 10, MMalostranská,
tel. 724 15 17 95. A haven for the healthy, Kafíčko serves
fabulous coffee and teas in a quiet smoke-free coffeehouse
just off mainstream tourism madness. Rest your soul for a bit
while you browse a newspaper, or try one of the home-made
cakes. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. G
U Zavěšenýho kafe Praha 1, Úvoz 6, MMalostranská,
tel. 605 29 45 95. The name refers to a time when richer
clients paid for two coffees, leaving one for the next impoverished
artist to arrive. Sit and relax, buy a hanging coffee if
you’re feeling philanthropic, otherwise while away the time in a
space that exists outside the tourist zone around it. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. BK
For more food and drink go to
www.inyourpocket.com
FOOD & DRINK AROUND PRAGUE
Czech
Baráčnická rychta A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště 23, MMalostranská,
tel. 257 53 24 61, www.baracnickarychta.
cz. This dark and cosy pub, aglow from the copper lighting
fixtures, may be the perfect place to experience the beauty
of Czech winters, although in the warmer months it may
translate as a little stuffy. Either way the food is as earthy
and homemade as it comes in Prague.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
(50 - 150Kč). AE
Lví dvůr A-1, Praha 1, U Prašného mostu 6, MHradčanská,
tel. 224 37 23 61, www.lvidvur.cz. Loitering in a small
house at the northern entrance to the castle, the Lion’s
Court offers Czech cooking fit for royalty at princely prices.
The European wine selection is excellent and their kitchen
does amazing things to pork that we hadn’t dreamed possible.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (150 - 400Kč). ABP
Olympia B-4, Praha 1, Vítězná 7, MNárodní třída, tel.
251 51 10 80, www.olympia-restaurant.cz. This retrofurnished
Pilsner Urquell-owned restaurant provides a more
modern and international slant to Czech staples - including
the prices. It’s firmly on the tourist trail, but authentic, wellpresented
and excellent for a beer, snack or full-on meal.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (100 - 300Kč). AT
Sovovy Mlýny B-3, Praha 1, U Sovových mlýnů 2,
MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 59 00, www.sovovymlyny.
com. The restaurant in the white mill building on Kampa Island
is especially recommended for its riverside terrace. The menu
includes many decent fish dishes but don’t let that distract
you from the views of the weir and Charles Bridge. Excellent
kitchen and astounding location on the river and next to the
Museum Kampa. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. ABGP
U Maltézských rytířů B-2, Praha 1, Prokopská
10, MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 36 66, www.umaltezskychrytiru.cz.
A fairly ordinary upstairs bar area does
not prepare you for the maze of tiny, secret passages below.
Here you can dine in practically your own private cave. The
repast is excellent, big and delicious. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(300 - 750Kč). AEG
U Zlaté hrušky Praha 1, Nový svět 3, MHradčanská,
tel. 220 51 47 78, www.zlatahruska.cz. Tucked above the
castle in beautiful grounds on a quiet street, the Golden Pear
is one of the top ten dining establishments in the city. Wood
interior panels and low ceilings make for intimate dining and
alumni include Margaret Thatcher and the Finnish president.
Q Open 11:30 - 15:00; 18:30 - 24:00. (400 - 800Kč).
ABEGPTU
Vikárka A-1, Praha 1, Vikářská 39, tel. 233 31 19 62,
www.vikarka.cz. This collection of delicately restored but
wildly different rooms is a great place to sample Bohemian
and international cuisine; try the grilled duck with honey and
ginger, or the roast venison. The adjoining 16th century emperor
Rudolph’s foundry rooms serve similar food. QOpen
11:00 - 21:00. B
French
Bastille B-4, Praha 1, Újezd 26/426, tel. 257 31 28 30,
www.labastille.cz. A laid back restaurant with excellent food
and atmosphere enough to keep diners lingering for cocktails
well after dessert. Although a French restaurant, Bastille does
produce pasta, Czech and Czech-Mex dishes too. Lamb, pork,
fish, mussels, frog’s legs all served with Gallic flair. Budvar.4l
for 40Kč. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. (90 - 380Kč). A
€1 - 27.77Kč, US$1 - 20.88Kč,
£1 - 40.63 Kč (19.03.2007)
Pálffy Palác B-1, Praha 1, Valdštejnská 14, MMalostranská,
tel. 257 53 05 22, www.palffy.cz. The ambience
of this 100% antique, turn-of-the-century dining room
is shabbily aristocratic, and the clientele seem to feel the
need to keep up appearances. It is, on the other hand, the
perfect place to ask for the hand of your sweetheart. A favourite
weekend brunch treat, the excellent smoked salmon
and spinach pancakes are only surpassed by the stunning
views of the castle gardens. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (400
- 900Kč). ABGPT
U Malířů B-3, Praha 1, Maltézské nám. 11, MMalostranská,
tel. 257 53 00 00, www.umaliru.cz. This is one of those
restaurants that many acknowledge is a must-do in Prague as
it has the reputation of the best French cuisine in the city. The
pedigree is long, the restaurant was given three stars by an otherwise
difficult to please King Rudolf II - in 1544, if you please. Go
for the sumptuous décor and the ambience of wealth. QOpen
11:30 - 24:00. (1,200 - 2,000Kč). AGPT
U Patrona B-2, Praha 1, Dražického nám. 4, MMalostranská,
tel. 257 53 07 25, www.upatrona.cz. One of only
fifteen Michelin recommended restaurants in Prague, dining
at U Patrona is a trip into the bygone era of Czech hospitality.
Diners can enjoy the intimate downstairs room or the large
upstairs area where you can watch the chef preparing your
French influenced Czech specialities such as quarter of a
roast goose with almonds, red cabbage and rolled dumplings.
Luxurious surroundings mimic the gracious service, superb
menu and wine list. Euros accepted. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
(280 - 700Kč). ABEGPTU
Indian
Haveli Praha 6, Dejvická 6, MHradčanská, tel. 233 34 48
00, www.haveli.cz. Have a seat in the bar area on the ground
floor and watch Indian music videos with the staff, or dine in the
beautiful cellar restaurant under vaulted ceilings and the watchful
eyes of ancient gentry in paintings on the walls. Authentic cuisine
and a good selection of vegetarian offerings. QOpen 11:00
- 23:00. Bar open 11:00 - 02:00. (120 - 290Kč). A
Malý Buddha Praha 1, Úvoz 44, MHradčanská, tel. 220
51 38 94. Crammed with enlightenment-seeking students
from the nearby American College, Little Buddha opens its
doors to those who like calm, joss sticks and cleanliness of
liver and lungs. A range of utilitarian dishes from the east
are presented at charitable prices. The desserts were our
favourite part, apart, that is, from the sprint down to the pub
afterwards for a pint and a cigarette. QOpen 13:00 - 22:30.
Closed Mon. (150 - 300Kč). G
International
NEW
Akat Steakhouse B-2, Praha 1, Mostecká 19,
MMalostranská, tel. 257 53 03 00. No Czech cows at
Akat, all their excellent beef comes from Argentina and is
served with a smile in 200g or 400g slabs in cuts including
fillet mignon, churrasco, sirloin, entrecote and T-Bone, with
the usual sauce options to choose from. Chicken, pork and
lamb round out their menu which is well complemented
by the wine list. The winter garden setting is unusual and
nicely bright for chilly days. QOpen 11.00 - 23.00. (200
- 1000Kč). AB
April - May 2007
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