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62<br />

FOOD & DRINK AROUND <strong>PRAGUE</strong><br />

Vinohrady & Žižkov<br />

Vinohrady (J/K-5/6) has everything from cheap ethnic<br />

restaurants, trendy bars and a fabulous beer garden to<br />

one of Europe’s top clubs. Neighbouring Žižkov (K-4/5) is<br />

a working-class district that’s proud to have the highest<br />

number of places serving alcohol in the country. Vinohrady<br />

is best explored from the Jiřího z Poděbrad (JzP), Náměstí<br />

Míru or I. P. Pavlova metro stations; night trams N°51, 57<br />

and 59 roll to and from the Old Town. Žižkov is a short<br />

steep walk past the TV Tower from JzP metro, or a short<br />

ride on trams N°5, 9 or 26. Stagger home on night trams<br />

N°55 or 58.<br />

American<br />

Ambiente Living K-5, Praha 2, Mánesova 59, MNám.<br />

Míru, tel. 222 72 78 51, www.ambi.cz. One of the Ambiente<br />

chain, and as eternally popular as the others, this place<br />

serves up fresh salad, great stuffed peppers, ribs and of<br />

course chicken wings. This is billed as a ‘lifestyle’ restaurant<br />

and serves delicious dishes with their distinctive brand of<br />

style. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. (150<br />

- 300Kč). A<br />

Australian<br />

Bumerang J-6, Praha 2, Londýnská 52, MNám. Míru,<br />

tel. 222 51 70 47, www.52.cz. In addition to a wealth of<br />

international dishes, there are several varieties of kangaroo<br />

– fried, sautéed, grilled and mercilessly skewered – for those<br />

who have a craving for the island continent’s equivalent of<br />

deer. Only Foster’s is in evidence. Lively and often full, although<br />

there have been recent reports of mysterious additions to<br />

bills. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 02:00. (150<br />

- 250Kč). PAB<br />

Prague In Your Pocket<br />

Brewery restaurants<br />

U Vodárny K-5, Praha 3, Korunní 75, MJiřího z<br />

Poděbrad, tel. 222 52 25 40, www.restaurace-uvodarny.<br />

cz. At the Water Tower is famous for another liquid: fresh<br />

Gambrinus, Pilsner Urquell and Kozel from tanks rather than<br />

barrels – pubs must consume a certain amount of beer to be<br />

given this honour. It is also famous for excellent and cheap<br />

home cooked traditional food and that superb habit of singing<br />

rock n roll and country and western songs in Czech. Plus they<br />

have an adjacent non-stop herna with saloon doors. QOpen<br />

10:00 - 23:00. (40 - 200Kč). BE<br />

Cafés<br />

Café Pavlač K-4, Praha 3, Víta nejedlého 23, tel. 222<br />

27 17 31, www.cafepavlac.cz. Healthy eating comes to<br />

Žižkov? Café Pavlač, named for the courtyard gallery out the<br />

back, which staff and artist are happy for you to explore,<br />

serves up good breakfast, snacks and meals, including pasta<br />

and salmon steak. Nights can happen too, with a full bar<br />

and Gambrinus at 22Kč. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00<br />

- 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (55 - 180Kč). B<br />

Kaaba J-5, Praha 2, Mánesova 20, MMuzeum, tel.<br />

222 25 40 21. This über-funky café and attached tabak on<br />

eclectic Mánesova is the perfect spot for their sinfully thick<br />

hot chocolate, varied selection of premium teas and coffees,<br />

plus breakfast, cakes and alcohol, of course. An assortment<br />

of design furniture, light fixtures and ashtrays allow the varied<br />

clientele to feel as cool as this place looks. Enjoy. QOpen<br />

08:00 - 22:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00.<br />

NEW<br />

Maluj Creative Café Praha 3, Korunní 105, MJiřího z<br />

Poděbrad, tel. 774 62 58 51, www.studio-maluj.cz. Do it<br />

yourself chic at this new café that serves up unglazed pottery<br />

(plates, bowls, ashtrays, objects) in addition to the usual café<br />

food and beverage items. Roll up your sleeves and get creative<br />

with their paints, then they’ll glaze your work of art for you to take<br />

home. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. P<br />

Noel’s J-5, Praha 2, Anny Letenské 18, MNám. Míru, tel.<br />

608 27 74 33, www.noels.cz. So far, new ownership of the<br />

Metropole has had little impact, with only a bluesier soundtrack<br />

in its mellow space and an increasing line up of live music, but<br />

Noel promises a gradual conversion into a rawer music club in<br />

the coming months. The food, drinks and laid back atmosphere<br />

remain, so head down for the talented live acts, mostly at the<br />

weekends at the moment. Reservations are necessary for the<br />

free live acts. Anagram Bookshop remains for the moment.<br />

QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. EW<br />

Rybanaruby K-5, Praha 2, Mánesova 87, MJiřího z<br />

Poděbrad, tel. 731 57 07 01, www.rybanaruby.cz. Part<br />

café, part live music venue, part shop it goes into the café<br />

section because of its opening hours. Underground music in a<br />

very literal sense – down the stairs you’ll find legalize cannabis<br />

proponents selling world music CDs, djembes, didgeridoos,<br />

etc. and hosting similar veined live acts (admission 51 -<br />

111Kč). Very cool space. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00.<br />

Shakespeare & Sons Praha 10, Krymská 12, tel. 271<br />

74 08 39, www.shakes.cz. Thousands of handpicked new<br />

and used English titles, earnest poetry and prose readings<br />

and performance, newspapers, chess and backgammon,<br />

Bernard beer, some funky original art and mosaics, plus coffee,<br />

tea and cakes. Tram N°4, 22 or 23 to the Krymská stop.<br />

QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. E<br />

FOOD & DRINK AROUND <strong>PRAGUE</strong><br />

Czech<br />

Hlučná samota J-6, Praha 2, Záhřebská 14, MNám.<br />

Míru, tel. 222 52 28 39, www.hlucnasamota.cz. Exposed<br />

brick walls and dark wood embrace all comers. The food<br />

though is the real reason to be here - quality fish and meat,<br />

crisp vegetables, and a few more side order options than<br />

usual plus real French fries.QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun<br />

12:00 - 23:00. (80 - 250Kč). AB<br />

Koliba U Pastýřky J-7, Praha 4, Bělehradská 15, MI.P.<br />

Pavlova, tel. 222 56 43 35, www.pastyrka.cz. The<br />

Shepherdess’s Cottage caters to Czechs and tour groups with<br />

trestle type dining to the tune of traditional dulcimer Gypsy<br />

music. The wooden cottage was built as a representative<br />

Czechoslovak restaurant for the 1967 World Exhibition in Montreal<br />

and shipped over here for to continue the Czech dining<br />

pleasure. QOpen 18:00 - 01:00. (90 - 300Kč). BE<br />

U Kalicha I-6, Praha 2, Na Bojišti 12, MI.P. Pavlova, tel.<br />

296 18 96 00, www.ukalicha.cz. The pub that features at the<br />

beginning of the Czech literary classic ‘The Good Soldier Švejk’ as<br />

the planned location of the never-to-be meeting “...at six in the<br />

evening after the war.” An oompah band keeps the atmosphere<br />

rolling. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 300Kč). AEGP<br />

French<br />

L’Ardoise J-6, Praha 2, Londýnská 29, MI.P. Pavlova,<br />

tel. 602 27 95 11, www.lardoise.cz. The kitchen, the staff<br />

and owner make diners feel suitably important for the calibre<br />

of cuisine and superlative wine list. Daily blackboard specials,<br />

such as soup, foie gras and fresh fish, join the succulent veal,<br />

beautifully caramelised salmon and sinful desserts.QOpen<br />

11:00 - 01:00. (180 - 420Kč). AB<br />

La Lavande J-6, Praha 2, Záhřebská 24, tel. 222 51 74<br />

06, www.lalavande.wz.cz. Behind the rather unwelcoming<br />

barred windows lies this gem of classic French cuisine that<br />

has one of the best lunch deals in the city. Chefs have years<br />

experience in 4 and 5 Star hotels and whatever you order, be<br />

it the goat cheese millefeuille, mussels, or crème caramel, it’ll<br />

be good. The mostly French wine list runs from 200 - 2000Kč.<br />

Q Open 11:30 - 15:00 & 18:30 - 23:00. Sat 18:30 - 23:00.<br />

Sun by request. (150 - 450Kč). PAB<br />

U Bílé krávy I-5, Praha 2, Rubešova 10, MI. P. Pavlova,<br />

tel. 224 23 95 70, www.bilakrava.cz. Although such<br />

classic French appetisers as frogs’ legs and escargot are<br />

served, the restaurant’s claim to fame, as one might surmise<br />

from the illuminated bull’s head hanging outside, is Charolais<br />

beef. Fantastic atmosphere, great service and even better<br />

food make reservations essential most evenings. Print out a<br />

10%discount card from the website. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00.<br />

Closed Sat, Sun. (125 - 600Kč). AP<br />

Greek<br />

Olympos K-4, Praha 3, Kubelíkova 9, MJiřího z Poděbrad,<br />

tel. 222 72 22 39, www.tavernaolympos.cz. Rightfully the<br />

most famous Greek restaurant in Prague. Excellent Grecian<br />

starters, a haul of fresh seafood, and friendly, hard working<br />

staff. Superb. The massive garden may be closed but Olympos<br />

does have a lovely winter garden. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sun<br />

11:30 - 23:00. (200 - 500Kč). ABT<br />

Chinese<br />

Huang He K-7, Praha 10, Vršovická 1, tel. 271 74 66<br />

51, www.huanghe.cz. Chinese as good as it should be;<br />

they spice the food up properly then warn Czech clients not<br />

to order that dish. Enjoy the hot and sour soup, but everything<br />

else on the menu is worth ordering, too. Tram N°6 from from<br />

I.P. Pavlova to the Nádrazí Vršovice stop. Reservations recommended.<br />

QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Also in Prague 9, Kolbenova<br />

1, tel. 283 89 05 18. (100 - 300Kč). AGP<br />

Indian<br />

Himalaya I-5, Praha 2, Mikovcova 7, MI.P. Pavlova,<br />

tel. 224 23 15 81, www.himalayagroup.cz. A functional<br />

take-away curry house with one table and a couple of stools<br />

if you really can’t wait. Excellent samosas, spicy jalfrezi,<br />

creamy korma, dal and chapattis make fairly cheap appearances.QOpen<br />

11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (60<br />

- 200Kč). S<br />

Manni Mini Praha 3, Seifertova 11, MHlavní nádraží, tel.<br />

222 51 16 60. A small, functional but very tasty Indian to fill<br />

the gap in the market. Curries of every hue and origin (tandoori,<br />

biryani, Punjabi, dopiaza, Madras, jalfrezi and vindaloo come in<br />

vegetarian, chicken, lamb and prawn variations with basmati rice<br />

and a wide smile. Good not brilliant, but oh, what a price. Wine for<br />

just 150Kč too.QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (100 - 170Kč).<br />

Taj Mahal I-5, Praha 2, Škrétova 10, MMuzeum, tel.<br />

224 22 55 66, www.tajmahal.cz. It’s pricey, but the<br />

Indian décor, the pleasant service and the separate halls<br />

for smokers and the nicotine-free are all as worthy of the<br />

price as the authentic dishes they serve. At Taj Mahal, if it<br />

says spicy, then by Vishnu, it is spicy, and the same goes for<br />

the milder curries. An excellent place, although they don’t<br />

have draught beers, but they do have three Indian beers. If<br />

your curry was a tad hot, cool down with a lassi. QOpen<br />

11:30 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:30. (200 - 500Kč).<br />

AEGPTU<br />

April - May 2007<br />

63

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