PRAGUE - Fringe

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FOOD & DRINK AROUND PRAGUE
Letná & Holešovice
North of town, Holešovice (K-1) is slightly scruffy while
Letná (H/I-1) is centred around Letenské náměstí with
some worthwhile restaurants and bars and fabulous beer
garden. The Vltavská metro station lies at the edge of the
area; otherwise trams N°3, 5, 8, 14 and 26 rumble north
across the bridges. Night trams N°51, 53 and 54.
French
La Creperie J-1, Praha 7, Janovského 4, MVltavská,
tel. 220 87 80 40, www.lacreperie.cz. If you fancy a
culinary change of scene, try a taste of Brittany in the heart
of Holešovice. The galettes and crepes are paper-thin, and although
the fillings are not as plentiful as you’d like, it does give
you the excuse to try a couple of them. Vegetarians are well
catered for. They do some very reasonable wines, and even
Breton cider. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. (30 - 120Kč). P
Le Bistro de Marléne Praha 6, Schwaigerova 59/3,
tel. 224 92 18 53, www.bistrotdemarlene.cz. Staple of
the French expat and diplomat scene for a number of years,
its diminutive menu is is a major plus. Crafted French country
recipes can be accompanied by beautiful wines - although
these will empty your pockets. Others have come and gone,
this place is the real thing although it has now moved to the
Villa Schwaiger hotel. Q Open 11:00 - 14:00, 19:00 - 22:30;
Sat 19:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (370 - 570Kč). AGP
International
Fraktal H-1, Praha 7, Šmeralova 1, MHradčanská, tel.
777 79 40 94, www.fraktalbar.com. Fraktal has grown up
into Mexican-leaning eatery with massive portions while the
night time onus is definitely still into beer drinking. Brunch runs
till 15:30 at weekends. Daily menu includes burgers (some
heading to the boutique end of the scale; see goat cheese
and pistachio) and steaks. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun
11:30 - 01:00. (60 - 200Kč). BEK
Letenský zámeček I-2, Praha 7, Leteské sady 341,
MHradčanská, tel. 233 37 82 00, www.letenskyzamecek.cz.
A mock castle perched high above the city in
Letná park, this is a great place to come in the summer. To
one side, the cheaper tables are served by the grill sheds, to
the other, decent salads, pastas and fish are escorted from
the chateau itself. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. (100 - 300Kč).
PTAGB
Svatá Klára Praha 7, U Trojského zámku 35, tel. 233
54 01 73, www.svataklara.cz. For something completely
different, descend 16m underground in this natural cave
made into a wine cellar and restaurant. The rough stone is
cheered up with classical furniture and artworks, and the
classy menu features Czech game dishes such as pheasant
breast with forest herbs and sage. Find Svatá Klára near
Trojska castle, a short taxi ride from town. QOpen 18:00
- 01:00. (300 - 1,440Kč)
Spanish
La Bodega Flamenca H-1, Praha 7, Šmeralova 5,
MVltavská, tel. 233 37 40 75. A colourfully-tiled cellar that
replicates the small-dish-rattling ways of a tapas bar. The food
is a delight, and the staff are genuinely happy to see you. And
should you fancy some salsa on the dancefloor rather than
on your plate, then this is the place for you. QOpen 17:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 03:00. (150 - 300Kč). EGP
Prague In Your Pocket
Bars
Irish Club Prague H-1, Praha 7, Keramická 4, tel. 233
37 11 28, www.irishclubprague.com. An Irish bar in the
heart of Letná rather than Old Town allows for friendlier prices
and local attendance. Live (Irish & Czech country, blues and
more) music (there is also a piano for punters), quiz nights,
foosball and warm wooden interior. Gambrinus 20Kč. Accommodation
available upstairs. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
Le Tram H-1, Praha 7, Šmeralova 12, tel. 233 370
359. The French owner of this red-lit funky bar has bits of
trams all over the place – from the plastic chairs to the hand
railings. Better yet are the cheap beers and cocktails that
the wizards behind the bar conjure up, and the great French
multi-culti music which is DJed or played live in the rear corner.
QOpen 20:00 - 06:00.
Un Chien Andalou H-1, Praha 7, Korunovační 4, tel.
731 22 11 67. Red and louche, this spot is perfect for some
decadent though faintly sophisticated boozing. It’s dark and
boudoir-like, with sofas mingling with tables and the bar
crowd. Live music rears its head occasionally though cool
tunes make an appearance nightly. Go for a looksee and you
might never leave. QOpen 19:00 - 05:00.
Wakata I-1, Praha 7, Malířská 14, MVltavská, tel. 233
37 05 18, www.wakata.cz. You’ll have plenty of time to
admire the owner’s welding work, in the form of outlandish
bar stools, whilst waiting for them to relocate your order in
the scrambled minds which they nonchalantly nod to a great
soundtrack of hip-hop and other assortments. QOpen 17:00
- 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. E
Clubs in Letná
Cross Club Praha 7, Plynární 23, tel. 736 53 50 53,
www.crossclub.cz. An underground legend has emerged
into legal luminescence as the cool kid on the block. Jungle,
drum ‘n base, house and chill have their own rooms and
the music, whether DJ or live, has to compete with some of
the funkiest, most inventive décor around. QOpen 14:00
- 03:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 05:00. EK
Face To Face Praha 7, Ostrov Štvanice 1125, MVltavská,
tel. 242 49 83 53/607 18 03 31, www.facetoface.cz.
Rub shoulders and, if you play your cards right,
perhaps more with the young Czech crowd at this club which
hosts theme nights on and around its 3 dance floors, many
bars and viewing balcony. Huge and popular, the music runs
from classic hits of the 80s to the best of Czech pop. Q Open
Thu - Sat 20:00 - 06:00. Admission 100Kč. BP
Mecca Praha 7, U Průhonu 3, MNádraží Holešovice,
tel. 283 87 05 22, www.mecca.cz. One can hardly shuffle
from one foot to other without falling into the lap of some
super-model clubbing lass lying back on one of the huge white
sofas. Great music and vibe, check out free Wednesdays
and the superb selectro nights.QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Fri
11:00 - 06:00, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. Closed Sun. Admission
150 - 200Kč. AEPU
Misch Masch I-1, Praha 7, Veletržní 61, MVltavská,
tel. 603 22 22 27, www.mischmasch.cz. The legendary
club of Prague of old, well, Prague of 2002 anyway, has been
refurbed and reopened to much noise, fanfare and acclaim.
A good line up of local and international DJs keep the beats
going on the dance, oldies and black music zones. Q Open
Thu - Sat 20:00 - 04:00. Admission 50Kč/100Kč Fri & Sat
22:00 - 04:00.
Smíchov & Anděl
FOOD & DRINK AROUND PRAGUE
Long a disregarded industrial area (with the fabulous Staropramen
brewery still in its midst), Smíchov (G-5/6 and westwards)
is making amazing steps towards becoming another
funky area. Countless restaurants and bars cater to a young
Czech crowd. Anděl metro station is in the district’s heart;
night trams N°54,58 and 59 will take you away from it all.
American
TGI Fridays Praha 5, Nádražní 110, MAnděl, tel. 257 28
62 61, www.tgifridays.cz. Another location for the same as
it ever was slice of Americana although this one has cheaper
prices than its Old Town sibling and shares its bathrooms with
Planet Sushi next door. The rejuvenation of this area is underlined
by the location here of Prague’s second TGIF. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. (120 - 400Kč). AGPTW
Brewery restaurants
Na Verandách Praha 5, Nádražní 84, MAnděl, tel. 257
19 11 11, www.ppivovary.cz. Enjoy Czech and regional specialties
with the freshest Staropramen in town at the brewery
restaurant. The basic furniture seats tourists, businessmen,
hair-of-the-dog drinkers and even ladies who lunch. The
halůsky, a variation of spätzl noodles, with goat cheese and
crispy bacon, and the gulaš, of course, are recommended. For
the beer, try the turbid Kvasničák, an unfiltered, unpasteurised
yeast beer (25Kč). All Interbrew’s other beers are available
too. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (80 - 200Kč). B
Cafés
Káva Káva Káva G-6, Praha 5, Lidická 42, MAnděl. The
future of the café for Prague with internet in the back (free 15
minutes with purchase), Wi-Fi all over and superlative staff. Czech
or English, it matters not for these always happy-to-serve girls.
Smoothies and café frappé will prove more popular as summer
arrives. Cheap Czech Mex standards make up the menu after the
more usual cakes and bagels. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
09:00 - 22:00. Also at (E-4), Národní 31. (40 - 250Kč). W
Czech
Czech Folklore Na Zlíchově 18, tel. 251 522 255,
www.folkloregarden.cz. If you’re not one to sit still during
a meal, then this is the restaurant for you. At Czech Folklore,
you’re fed large portions of traditional Czech food and beer,
and simultaneously entertained with a three-hour show with
live music and folk dancing. Great fun if you’re in for a countrystyle
party; active participation is welcomed. Czech Folklore is
south of Smíchov; tram N°12, 14 or 20 to Hlubočepy. QOpen
20:00 - 22:30. (550 - 990Kč). ABEP
Grotta Praha 5, Ostrovského 7, MAnděl, tel. 251 56
27 50, www.grotta.mtbike.cz. Just up the hill from Anděl
bus station, this cellar restaurant is a great find. Attentive
staff are welcoming as the arched and alcoved room. Food
is large, filling, delicious and curiously named. Try Bloodied
squirrel with asparagus or Knight’s sword with chicken steak.
Alternatively, go for the Czech regulars. Excellent. And the
beer is cheap. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00.
(99 - 225Kč). AP
€1 - 27.77Kč, US$1 - 20.88Kč,
£1 - 40.63 Kč (19.03.2007)
International
Mirage G-1, Praha 5, Náměstí 14. října 17, MAnděl,
tel. 257 31 13 84, www.miragebar.cz. The service
matches the classy décor and menu and the Bloody Mary is
pretty damn good too. Mirage offers quality sushi, breakfast,
baguettes, fondue, a 99Kč daily special, plus the usual
international menu items. Good cocktails, perfect espresso
and wines from 120Kč make this a great spot for a chat or
dinner. QOpen 08.00 - 24.00, Sat, Sun 10.00 - 24.00. (60
- 350Kč). PAB
Pizzeria U Tučňáků Praha 5, Nádražní 19, MAnděl,
tel. 257 31 66 50. Colourful yet sterile, but the food is
well prepared, large and well priced. The pizza oven keeps
the place warm, although is more than pizza on their menu.
Chicken steak with beautifully poached salmon and spinach is
delicious and comes with a tasty cheese sauce. The plate of
chicken, roast broccoli and potatoes au gratin a huge meal for
139Kč. All in all a great place. The interesting looking music
bar downstairs is open from 16:00 - 04:00. QOpen 11:00
- 23:00. (85 - 260Kč).
Wigwam G-5, Praha 5, Zborovská 54, MAnděl, tel. 603
50 81 20, www.cafebarwigwam.cz. Vaguely Aztec/Latino
décor but with an international menu leaning towards the
Oriental side of the globe and with no Mexican dishes at all.
Excellent burgers and crisp fries join pasta, salads, steak,
duck and chicken plus Thai curry and noodles dishes on their
good menu. Sit in the garden complete with guardian angel
or inside in one of their many rooms. Cool photography, one
of the best waitresses yet and well priced drinks, including
Mezcal. Budvar 29Kč make this a great find. QOpen 11:00
- 01:00. (95 - 255Kč). B
Japanese
Nagoya Praha 5, Stroupežnického 23, MAnděl, tel.
251 51 17 24, www.nagoya.cz. The first genuine Japanese
restaurant in Prague. Nagoya comes complete with its
authentic Japanese chef and food that has quickly become
very popular with Prague foodies and visitors alike. Sushi,
sashimi, tempura, noodles... all are here, and all are well done.
Thoroughly recommended. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00, 17:00
- 23:00. Closed Tue. (140 - 440Kč). AGP
Planet Sushi Praha 5, Nádražní 110, MAnděl, tel. 257
28 62 61. An oasis of Japanese calm among the urban
bustle of Anděl/Smíchov’s busy thoroughfare, although the
ambience is marred slightly by the proximity and shared
bathrooms of the adjacent TGI Friday. Attentive staff and
complete menu including yami rolls and deserts provide an
alternative to the Japanese restaurants already in the area.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (200 - 750Kč). AGP
Pool Café Praha 5, Ralická 1/B (Anděl City), MAnděl,
tel. 226 08 21 32/737 04 91 58, www.sushigohome.cz.
From the makers of SushiPoint at the Myslbek centre comes
the same menu in more laid back surroundings. It’s all a tad
Hockney inside with a refracting pool-like paint job, but the
sushi, sashimi and nigiri are the same high quality.QOpen
10:00 - 12:00. (180 - 600Kč). A
Sushi Bar G-5, Praha 5, Zborovská 49, MAnděl, tel. 603
24 48 82, www.sushi.cz. The freshest fish for the best sushi,
this place does it - but for a price. Try the sushi menu for a selection
sampler - the three piece Temaki Sushi set and nine piece
Sashimi set was handsomely presented and deliciously refreshing.
Superb service and intimate setting make this a continual
favourite. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (250 - 500Kč). AP
April - May 2007
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