PRAGUE - Fringe

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PRAGUE CASTLE
The largest collection of wonders in the city, Prague castle
is an amalgamation of architecture from different periods.
From the almost pastoral serenity of St. George’s Basilica,
to the awe-inspiring Gothic power of St. Vitus Cathedral,
the castle has attractions for all - history and architecture
plus marching soldiers and entertainment.
Approach & Entry A-1, Praha 1, Hradčany, tel. 224
37 33 68, www.hrad.cz. There’s an information centre in
the second courtyard, where you can find out what time the
changing of the guard takes place, buy tickets and get audio
guides. There are four ways to approach the castle. By far
the best way is to take tram N°22 or 23 to the Pohořelec stop,
where you start with breathtaking views of Prague from Strahov
Monastery; then walk down through beautiful Hradčanská
district along Loretánská towards the main castle entrance
on Hradčanské náměstí. You can skip the Hradčanská walk
by getting off the tram earlier, at the Pražský hrad stop, from
where you enter the second courtyard. Alternatively, walk up
Nerudova and the steep hill from Malostranské náměstí. The
worst approach is up the Staré zámecké schody steps near
Malostranská metro station; these are best kept for the way
down. Q Buildings & Info open 09:00 - 17:00. Courtyards
(admission free) open 05:00 - 24:00. Castles gardens and
Jeleni prikop 10:00 - 18:00. Admission to the Cathedral, Old
King’s Palace, St. George’s, Powder Tower and Golden Lane:
350Kč. Cathedral, Old King’s Palace & Golden Lane: 220Kč.
St. Vitus Cathedral 100Kč. Reductions for families.
Schwarzenberg Palace Hradčanské nám. 2. The most
distinctive and largest of the buildings on the cobbled square
sweeping into the castle is this palace with decorated bricks.
Built between 1545 -1563, the building has been home to
the Museum of Military History since 1945. QOpen 09:00
- 17:00. Closed Mon.
Sternberg Palace Hradčanské nám. 15. Sharing an entrance
with the Archbishop’s Palace is the Šternberský palác
from 1698, part of the National Gallery and home of the collection
of European art, including Rubens and Rembrandt. In
1991 thieves stole US$2.6 million worth of Picassos. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50/20Kč.
First courtyard Pause at the castle gates to admire the
soldiers’ uniforms (designed by the wardrobe designer of the
film Amadeus), and hopefully see the changing of the guard.
Then, move into the courtyard flanking the presidential rooms,
which are not open to the public. These are numerous and
include the Spanish Hall, once the venue for meetings of the
Czechoslovak Communist Party.
Second courtyard Reconstructed by Empress Maria
Theresa, this courtyard acts as an intersection point for two of
the entrances into the castle. Exit under the archway to reach
the Stag Moat, Royal Gardens and trams N°22 & 23.
St. Vitus Cathedral St. Vitus is the spiritual heart of the
nation as the mausoleum of Bohemian kings and the city’s
greatest landmark. Entrance is no longer free, 100Kč gets you
across the threshold. A ticket gets you entrance into the royal
crypt; another ticket grants access to the 287 steps to the
top of the tower. Work on the present cathedral was started
in 1344 but it wasn’t consecrated until 1929. Don’t miss the
beautiful mosaic depicting the Last Judgement of Christ on
the exterior of the cathedral.QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Old Royal Palace One of the oldest and most impressive
parts of the castle, the Old Royal Palace dates from 1135
and was the seat of Bohemian princes. From the 13th to
the 16th century it was the king’s palace. The magnificent
Vladislav Hall was used for banquets, councils, coronations
and even jousting. All presidents have been sworn in here, and
this building was where the 1618 defenestration took place.
The palace contains The Story of Prague Castle exhibition.
Don’t forget to have a look at the Rampart Gardens below.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Prague In Your Pocket
St George’s Basilica The small Romanesque church lurking
behind a Baroque facade in the courtyard behind St. Vitus.
Now deconsecrated, it serves as a concert hall. In the chapel
on the right of the entrance are the bones of St. Ludmila, the
first Czech saint. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 50Kč.
Golden Lane The phrase ‘picturesque street’ might have
been invented to describe this tiny cobbled lane with its miniature
workers’ cottages - now shops. It was on this street,
or so legend has it, that 16th-century alchemists laboured to
discover the Philosopher’s Stone to make gold from lead. Franz
Kafka spent evenings at his sister’s house, N°22. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00. Admission 50Kč.
Daliborka Tower Built in 1496 and used as a prison till
the end of 18th century, the tower stands on your left as
you exit the Golden Lane. It is so named for its first prisoner,
Dalibor of Kozojedy, whose story was told by Smetana in his
1868 opera Dalibor. The underground cell is truly terrifying.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Royal Gardens & Stag Moat North of the castle walls
are a succession of orderly and manicured gardens, laid
out in 1534 and are home to the Ball Game Hall. The Stag
Moat below the ramparts of the castle was reopened to the
general public by Havel. Despite the name there hasn’t been
a stag here since ravenous soldiers gobbled up the last of
them by the 17th century. The gardens on the southern side
of the castle can be entered via steps to the right of the main
castle gate. The main garden on the southern side is the
ramparts garden (Zahrada Na Valech), which overlooks Malá
Strana. The Rampart Gardens are bordered to the west by
the Paradise Garden (Rajská zahrada) and on the south to
the Hartig Garden (Hartigovská zahrada), which surrounds the
Music Pavilion (Hudební pavilon). In the 1920s and 30s the
Rampart Gardens were redesigned by the Slovak architect
Josip Plečnik. Unfortunately, his work was only seen for a
brief time before they were closed to the spying masses,
and again, Havel insisted that they be reopened. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00.
Palace Gardens B-1, Valdštejnská 12. A large set of
steeply terraced gardens leading up to the castle, punctuated
with pavilions, galleries and fountains. The steep climb up to
the castle is rewarded by fitness, some beautiful landscaping
and stunning views of the city. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Admission 80/40Kč, families 180Kč.
Charles Bridge (Karlův most) C-3, Praha 1,
MStaroměstská. Karlův most joins Staré Město (Old Town)
and the Malá Strana (Little Quarter) and is one of the world’s
most beautiful bridges. The bridge was built in 1357, but the
figures of saints were added during the 17th century. They
symbolise the confidence of the Catholic Austrian’s triumph
over the Protestant Hussites. The bridge is thronged all day
with tourists, while at night it offers wonderful views of the
illuminated castle and Old Town. Go at dawn to be alone and
witness the saints emerging from the mist.
Municipal House (Obecní Dům) F-3, Praha 1, nám.
Republiky 5, MNám. Republiky, tel. 222 00 21 27, www.
obecni-dum.cz. This magnificent building holds two restaurants,
a super café, an American bar, a gallery, shop and classical
music venue. Built between 1905 and 1910 in a stunning Art
Nouveau style, the Municipal House has been painstakingly
restored to its former glory. It was here that the Czechoslovakian
state was signed into being on October 28, 1918. It was also
here in 1989 that communist bureaucrats and revolution leaders
of the Civic Forum discussed the velvet transfer of power and
the state’s transformation to democracy.
Tourist information
Around Prague Information Centre E-3, Praha
1, Celetná 14, MStaroměstská, tel. 224 49 17
64/224 49 17 22, www.aroundprague.cz. Tickets,
accommodation, sightseeing tours, guidebooks, maps
and more. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Prague Info E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 1,
(Old Town Hall), MStaroměstské, tel. 236 00 25
62, www.prague-info.cz. This excellent official tourist
information centre provides vocal and written information
in various languages from helpful and knowledgeable
staff, plus tickets, excursions, and accommodation. For
general information in English, Czech or German call tel.
124 44. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00.
Also at I-3, Praha hlavní nádraží & B-2, Praha 1, Malá
Strana Tower, open 10:00 - 18:00.
THE ESSENTIALS
If you see nothing else, do not miss these sights.
Obviously in this city that has been a destination for
hundreds of years, there is much to see and do, and
one of the most enjoyable aspects is just wandering
around. Don’t forget to look up as the gilded spires
are rightfully what Prague is renowned for. But
keep an eye of the ground too - dog owners are not
renowned for their cleaning-up ability.
National Theatre (Národní divadlo) C-4, Národní 2,
MNárodní třída, tel. 224 90 16 68. This lavish neo-Renaissance
building on the bank of the Vltava, with its golden crown
of chariot-driving women, is Prague’s National Theatre. The
building was completed in 1881 and was almost immediately
destroyed by fire. It reopened in 1883.
Old Town Square (Staroměstská náměstí) E-3,
Praha 1, MStaroměstská. The indisputable heart of
Prague. This vast open space is flanked by a pleasing blend
of carefully restored architectural styles: Gothic, Renaissance,
Baroque and neo-styles. The square is notable for its
constant hum of activity, day and night, and a long history
as centre stage for so many of the city’s defining moments.
Towering above the square, half-hidden behind a row of
houses, is the fairy-turreted Týn Church. The centrepiece of
the square is a memorial to Jan Hus. It was draped in swastikas
by the Nazis and in black cloth to mourn the passing
of the Prague Spring.
Town Hall & Astronomical clock E-3, Praha 1,
Staroměstské nám., MStaroměstská. The 14th century
Town Hall complex features a tower with an astronomical
clock, added in the 15th century. Every hour on the hour
Jesus and his disciples lead a pageant that includes the
allegorical figures of Death, the Turk, the Miser, the Fool and
the Rooster. It sounds more impressive than it actually is.
The climb or lift up the tower is rewarded by the stunning
views. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Mon 11:00 - 18:00. Admission
50/40/10Kč.
Vyšehrad H-7, Praha 2, Soběslavova 1, MVyšehrad.
The rocky cliff-top boasts Prague’s second castle. In the
hearts and minds of many Czechs, Vyšehrad symbolises the
birth of the Czech nation and is shrouded in legend and myth.
This is apparently the spot where Princess Libuše stood and
predicted the rise of a great city. Literally translated as ‘high
castle’, it was probably founded in the middle of the 10th
century. In 972 Prince Boleslav II built the royal mint here,
and in 1085 Vratislav II selected it as his residence. Over the
following centuries successive kings remodelled the palace
and fortress, but moved their permanent home across the
river. Within the fortress confines is the national cemetery
(Vyšehradský hřbitov), which from the 1870s became the
final resting place of many of the most famous Czech writers
and composers, including Jan Neruda, Bedřich Smetana and
Antonín Dvořák. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30.
Wenceslas Square F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám.,
MMůstek. Václavské náměstí is actually a boulevard
running down from the National Museum and the equestrian
statue of Saint Wenceslas to Můstek, formerly the site of of
a city gate and drawbridge. This is where crowds traditionally
come to demonstrate against their incompetent rulers, and
this was where, in 1989, thousands gathered to shake their
keys in celebration of the death of the Communist Party.
Rows of shops, hotels (note the Art Nouveau glory of Hotel
Europa) and nightclubs flank the pavements, and by night
it can get a bit sleasy. Thankfully, there are plans to rid the
square of cars, bury the highway in front of the museum in a
tunnel and have tram N°11 make a come-back.
April - May 2007
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