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Wealden Times | WT165 | November 2015 | Gift supplement inside

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FreeImages.com/Andrew Clark<br />

Lay down your shears<br />

Sue Whigham marvels at late-season flowers, seed heads and grasses<br />

and urges gardeners to think before pruning<br />

Last week we were having a leisurely walk in Brockwell<br />

Park, an estate set out in the early nineteenth century,<br />

complete with mansion, walled gardens and huge<br />

greenhouses, and now a park bordered by Brixton and Tulse<br />

Hill in South London. Back in the eighties I remember<br />

brief walks there with the dog between school runs and<br />

it wasn’t a place to linger. Now the elegant lido has a gym<br />

and café, there are tennis courts and a couple of fantastic<br />

playgrounds and the old greenhouses are being used by<br />

the local community. There are plenty of mature trees and<br />

there is some interesting landscaping around the duck<br />

ponds. We were admiring the grasses looking their best in<br />

the autumn sunshine when we rounded a corner and lo<br />

and behold, there was a municipal Lambeth truck being<br />

piled high with said grasses, leaving… bare earth. By now,<br />

being a public park, they might have been replaced with<br />

some sort of winter bedding but I thought at the time that<br />

it really was an example of too much tidying, too soon.<br />

So, what does need ‘tidying up’ in late autumn? I think that<br />

any herbaceous plants that have good structural qualities can<br />

be left until they collapse in a soggy heap and you’ll see when<br />

that happens. But, until then, why not enjoy the flower heads<br />

of sedums, of grasses, and the distinctive stems of border<br />

plants like phlomis.<br />

I would certainly keep raking or picking up leaves from the<br />

lawn and adding them to your leaf-mould pile as they make a<br />

good soil improver in no time at all. Oak and hornbeam can<br />

make really good leaf mould in about eighteen months while<br />

the leaves of trees such as horse chestnut, sweet chestnut<br />

and sycamore are much tougher and take longer. Shredding<br />

them with a rotary mower before adding them to your heap<br />

will speed up the process of decomposition. Anything swept<br />

up from under roses that have any sign of black spot or rust<br />

or any other pathogens should be kept well away from your<br />

leaf mould. The other clearing I would definitely do would be<br />

around succulents or any silver-leaved Mediterranean plants<br />

that have problems with wet winters and the possibility of<br />

rotting off.<br />

I’ve got a few Cotinus here (Smoke Bush), some doing<br />

rather better than others. C. ‘Grace’ has put a lot of growth<br />

on but is becoming leggy and rather unattractive in the<br />

back of a border. <strong>November</strong> is the perfect month to cut this<br />

shrub back by about a third just to ensure a more compact<br />

plant next year. I’d avoid doing that sort of pruning if it is<br />

particularly cold. I’d also have a quick check of fruit trees<br />

such as medlars and quinces, both of which have fruited<br />

well this year. The medlar has a spreading habit and really<br />

no routine pruning is necessary, just sometimes a slight trim<br />

of crossing branches or clusters of shoots improve the tree.<br />

It’s the same for quinces really – just improve on the tree’s <br />

147 www.wealdentimes.co.uk

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