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Alphubel from the west. In 1879, the face was climbed for the first time, namely by mountain guides Peter Taugwalder Junior and Abraham Imseng, together with one guest. The kings of the Mischabel group are the Dom and the Täschhorn. Both 4,000m peaks rank among the highest in the region, and their ascent is long. Traversing both peaks is a great classic tour. 20 The conquest of the Zermatt Mountains
Background on the first ascent of the Matterhorn The innumerable pieces written on the first ascent of the Matterhorn are – with few exceptions – based on Edward Whymper’s account in Scrambles amongst the Alps and The first Ascent of the Matterhorn. These texts were the foundation for further books published in many different languages. They portray Whymper’s extraordinary achievements, but also describe what he thought of the valley dwellers and the skills and performance of the mountain guides, in particular. Whymper discusses the poverty, the lack in education and the primitive way of living of the ‘natives’. From where he was standing, one might be able to understand his perception, but these natives were human beings nonetheless. Human beings who had very hard and simple lives before tourism brought a certain degree of upswing. By way of example: in 1865, the last famine in Valais lay barely a decade in the past. In those years, almost one fourth of the Valais population was forced to emigrate to Argentina or Algeria due to dire straits. Visp and the outer Visp Valley suffered from the aftermath of the catastrophic earthquake of 1855. Edward Whymper: Probably the most successful alpinist of his time. The conquest of the Zermatt Mountains 21
Page 1: The Matterhorn and its mountain gui
Page 4 and 5: © 2015, Hermann Biner, Zermatt Pub
Page 7 and 8: Preface The Matterhorn - mystical,
Page 9 and 10: Monte Rosa and Lyskamm with Gorner
Page 11 and 12: On August 13 of 1792, natural scien
Page 13 and 14: Zermatt and the Matterhorn around 1
Page 15 and 16: ·· Johann Zumtaugwald (first asce
Page 17 and 18: Weisshorn from the north. Today sti
Page 19: First ascents between 1850 and 1865
Page 23 and 24: Lyskamm - one of the most dangerous
Page 25 and 26: Between 1850 and 1865, Zermatt moun
Page 27 and 28: Lord Francis Douglas was guided up
Page 29 and 30: Aiguille Verte. Together with the M
Page 31 and 32: The Matterhorn from the Zermatt sid
Page 33 and 34: After the second ascent of the Aigu
Page 35 and 36: Peter Taugwalder described Whymper
Page 37 and 38: The fall at the Matterhorn. This is
Page 39 and 40: The fall site on the Matterhorn. Fa
Page 41 and 42: The Matterhorn Museum in Zermatt ha
Page 43 and 44: The faulty rope at the Matterhorn M
Page 45 and 46: Interrogating Peter Taugwalder Seni
Page 47 and 48: 30. Please, tell us more about the
Page 49 and 50: 58. Was your son recruited as a gui
Page 51 and 52: The account of Peter Taugwalder Jun
Page 53 and 54: Obergabelhorn south face. Only in 1
Page 55 and 56: The summit of the Matterhorn. Stand
Page 57: of the things we were saying? He di

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