Biner_Leseprobe

Peter Taugwalder described Whymper as a rather mediocre alpinist. However,
he attested Charles Hudson good mountaineering skills that came
close to the guides’ capabilities. After all, with his 36 years of age, Hudson
was the most experienced of all guests. Lord Douglas and Hadow were
teenagers and Whymper was only 25 years old.
The success on the Matterhorn was in great part the merit of Michel Croz.
He guided the roped parties through the most difficult part of the route,
when they had to sidestep onto the almost vertical north face. Since the
discussion about the tragedy at the Matterhorn overshadowed all media
coverage, Croz’ extraordinary performance was often overlooked. Croz was
one of the best mountain guides of his time. His career was short but admirable.
He successfully completed numerous and challenging first ascents
in the Dauphiné and in the Alpine region between Chamonix and Zermatt.
He was willing to take on any risk and no climbing problem seemed to be
too difficult for him. Later on, Whymper sent him his last words of goodbye:
“Michel Croz of Le Tour in the Valley of Chamonix, one of the best mountain
guides I have ever had the pleasure to meet. He died pitifully, due to foolishness,
in the first ascent of the Matterhorn on July 14 of 1865. Goodbye,
dear Michel. St. Niklaus, July 26 of 1906. Edward Whymper.”[paraphrased]
The first
ascensionists of
the Matterhorn.
Only three of
them survived.
The conquest of the Zermatt Mountains
35