Biner_Leseprobe

Between 1850 and 1865, Zermatt mountain guides mostly took on first
ascents in the Mischabel group and in the Monte Rosa region. Worthy of
mention in this context are, for instance, Johann Zumtaugwald, who participated
in most of these expeditions; and Johann Kronig, who guided
the first ascent of the Dent Blanche. Both of them attempted to climb the
Matterhorn from the Italian side, but lost interest due to the high difficulty.
Franz Biner, who took part in the first ascent of the Grandes Jorasses and
the Aiguille Verte, also attempted to climb the south face of the Matterhorn
together with Whymper and mountain guides Christian Almer and Michel
Croz. They hatched the plan on the Theodulpass when they saw a prominent
couloir in the south face leading up to the Furgggrat. They decided to
climb up through said couloir and reach the Furgggrat; then they planned
on traversing the east face in order to find a way for the ascent to the
summit. It does not come as a surprise that their plan was not successful;
furthermore, they faced severe rock fall in the south face.
Matterhorn south face.
The couloir leading to the
Furgggrat is very visible. It
was planned to climb the
Matterhorn via this couloir
and the east face.
The conquest of the Zermatt Mountains
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