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Biner_Leseprobe

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The Matterhorn from the Zermatt side – the parties<br />

involved and their ascents<br />

1865 On June 28, Hudson and Kennedy, guided by Peter<br />

Perren, attempt to climb the Aiguille Verte, but through<br />

the north face – an impossible venture at that time. They<br />

turned around due to bad weather.<br />

1865 As soon as Whymper hears that Kennedy is on his way to<br />

the Aiguille Verte, he recruits Franz <strong>Biner</strong> and Christian<br />

Almer to pre-empt Kennedy. In passing, this group is the<br />

first to climb the Grandes Jorasses on June 24, together<br />

with Michel Croz. On June 29, Whymper, together with<br />

<strong>Biner</strong> and Almer, successfully completes the first ascent<br />

of the Aiguille Verte via the Whymper Couloir. Thomas<br />

Kennedy and Charles Hudson were disgruntled by the<br />

fact that Whymper did not inform them about his plans.<br />

1865 On July 5, Kennedy and Hudson, together with Peter<br />

Perren and Michel Croz, successfully complete the<br />

second ascent of the Aiguille Verte via today’s Moine<br />

Route; they did not simply want to follow the Whymper<br />

Route. Until this day, this tour is considered a long and<br />

difficult one.<br />

1865 On July 7, mountain guides Peter Taugwalder Senior<br />

and Joseph Vianin are the first to climb the Obergabelhorn<br />

via the NNW-Ridge, with Lord Francis Douglas as<br />

their guest. Just the day before, the first ascent of this<br />

peak was completed via the E-Flank.<br />

32 The conquest of the Zermatt Mountains

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