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Interrogating Peter Taugwalder Senior<br />

In both interrogations conducted by judge Josef Anton Clemenz on July<br />

21 and 23 of 1865 in the Hotel Mont Cervin, Peter Taugwalder described<br />

the events leading up to the accident on the first ascent. These records<br />

were kept under seal for 55 years. It was only in 1920 that the authorities<br />

released the report after the Swiss Alpine Club Geneva had requested it<br />

following the advice of Jean-Ch. Courten, district judge of Sion.<br />

The questions regarding the planning and execution of the ascent are of<br />

special interest in this interrogation. Said questions are listed here below;<br />

the figures indicate the numbers of the questions in the original transcript.<br />

Excerpt from the first interrogation:<br />

23. Were you informed about the people participating in the ascent<br />

beforehand, and did you speak up regarding who should<br />

or should not take part? Also, did you mention the discrepancy<br />

between the number of tourists and the number of guides?<br />

They informed me on the number of participants, and I did not object.<br />

However, I did mention that, considering the number of tourists, there<br />

were not enough guides on the team. Whymper and Hudson replied<br />

that they were just as capable as the guides; I did not further comment<br />

on the issue.<br />

24. Who roped up the participants before the descent?<br />

The first four, namely lead guide Croz, Hadow, Hudson and Lord<br />

Douglas, were roped up by Croz. I tied myself to Lord Douglas with<br />

a special rope.<br />

25. Who was the first to be roped up?<br />

I do not remember exactly who was roped up first to Croz’ rope.<br />

26. Of what quality was said rope?<br />

It was a new, solid rope.<br />

The conquest of the Zermatt Mountains<br />

45

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