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Biner_Leseprobe

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We did not stay for long. My heart was so light, I felt like I could have flown<br />

far away, above and beyond the mountains, maybe even down to Zermatt to<br />

see my sweetheart. Then, we made ready for the descent. Whymper traded<br />

places with Lord Douglas and was now directly in front of me on the rope.<br />

Croz was still leading the group. So we slowly climbed down across the roof,<br />

at approximately the same section where the descent still crosses today.<br />

After that, we traversed back to the west face, along a ledge. We moved<br />

very slowly and with the utmost caution, since the descent was considerably<br />

more difficult than the ascent. We got to the end of the ledge, where Croz<br />

started to climb down the north face together with the three men closest to<br />

him. From time to time, my father belayed the rope on a ledge.<br />

All of a sudden, the four men shot through the air, almost as if they were<br />

leaving behind a small cloud where they used to stand. The rope broke as<br />

if it had been a mere thread; the four young mountaineers were gone. It<br />

happened as fast as lightning strikes. No one made a sound. They had disappeared<br />

into the dreadful abyss.<br />

One can only imagine how we felt. We were barely able to move – that is<br />

how shocked we were. Eventually, we tried to continue our descent; but<br />

Whymper was shaking so much, he was almost incapable of taking a step<br />

forward. My father took the lead and kept turning around in order to secure<br />

Whymper’s feet while climbing down the steps. We had to stop repeatedly<br />

to rest, for we were deeply shaken by what had happened. Nevertheless,<br />

we kept going and, eventually, we were back on the ridge, where we tried<br />

to eat something; it was virtually impossible, though. Our throats felt as if<br />

we were being chocked, incapable of swallowing anything. This was not<br />

surprising, since further down we saw our unfortunate comrades lying on<br />

the cold ice of the glacier. My heart was aching and tears ran down my<br />

cheeks. Our poor, poor friends. Only that same morning had they been<br />

alive and full of joy; now their broken, lifeless bodies were lying on the<br />

bitter-cold glacier.<br />

And if only the good Mr Douglas had not traded places, then he would<br />

have been the one who survived; he would well have been a better and<br />

more loyal friend to us than this Mr Whymper, who had been so very<br />

unapproachable and distant – and still was afterwards, even though we<br />

had saved his life. Without us, he would have died, as well. He later told<br />

a different story, a story in which he was the hero, and he said things<br />

that were not true. I, for instance, never saw any of the three crosses Mr<br />

Whymper had allegedly spotted in the sky. Furthermore, he put words into<br />

our mouths, without any motivation. How could he have understood any<br />

56 The conquest of the Zermatt Mountains

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