Biner_Leseprobe
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We did not stay for long. My heart was so light, I felt like I could have flown<br />
far away, above and beyond the mountains, maybe even down to Zermatt to<br />
see my sweetheart. Then, we made ready for the descent. Whymper traded<br />
places with Lord Douglas and was now directly in front of me on the rope.<br />
Croz was still leading the group. So we slowly climbed down across the roof,<br />
at approximately the same section where the descent still crosses today.<br />
After that, we traversed back to the west face, along a ledge. We moved<br />
very slowly and with the utmost caution, since the descent was considerably<br />
more difficult than the ascent. We got to the end of the ledge, where Croz<br />
started to climb down the north face together with the three men closest to<br />
him. From time to time, my father belayed the rope on a ledge.<br />
All of a sudden, the four men shot through the air, almost as if they were<br />
leaving behind a small cloud where they used to stand. The rope broke as<br />
if it had been a mere thread; the four young mountaineers were gone. It<br />
happened as fast as lightning strikes. No one made a sound. They had disappeared<br />
into the dreadful abyss.<br />
One can only imagine how we felt. We were barely able to move – that is<br />
how shocked we were. Eventually, we tried to continue our descent; but<br />
Whymper was shaking so much, he was almost incapable of taking a step<br />
forward. My father took the lead and kept turning around in order to secure<br />
Whymper’s feet while climbing down the steps. We had to stop repeatedly<br />
to rest, for we were deeply shaken by what had happened. Nevertheless,<br />
we kept going and, eventually, we were back on the ridge, where we tried<br />
to eat something; it was virtually impossible, though. Our throats felt as if<br />
we were being chocked, incapable of swallowing anything. This was not<br />
surprising, since further down we saw our unfortunate comrades lying on<br />
the cold ice of the glacier. My heart was aching and tears ran down my<br />
cheeks. Our poor, poor friends. Only that same morning had they been<br />
alive and full of joy; now their broken, lifeless bodies were lying on the<br />
bitter-cold glacier.<br />
And if only the good Mr Douglas had not traded places, then he would<br />
have been the one who survived; he would well have been a better and<br />
more loyal friend to us than this Mr Whymper, who had been so very<br />
unapproachable and distant – and still was afterwards, even though we<br />
had saved his life. Without us, he would have died, as well. He later told<br />
a different story, a story in which he was the hero, and he said things<br />
that were not true. I, for instance, never saw any of the three crosses Mr<br />
Whymper had allegedly spotted in the sky. Furthermore, he put words into<br />
our mouths, without any motivation. How could he have understood any<br />
56 The conquest of the Zermatt Mountains