Biner_Leseprobe

More documents

Recommendations

Info

The conquest of the Zermatt Mountains The first mountain guides At the end of the 18 th century, the motivation to climb mountains was grounded in the quest for scientific knowledge and pure curiosity; with the exception of summits that had already been climbed in the early period for military reasons. Also, hunters reached the odd summit when following the trail of game. To the local population, however, the mountains rather posed a threat. In winter, they faced the danger of avalanches, and in summer, landslides and rock falls loomed. It was common belief that the summits were inhabited by spectres and demons. On the summit of the Matterhorn, there were believed to be remains of an ancient city. Moreover, the locals had plenty of work as peasants during summer; therefore, they had no reason to take on the extra effort of climbing a mountain. In Gressoney, a Valais legend circulated according to which a heavenly and pristine valley was located beyond the Lysjoch pass. This ‘lost valley’ was most likely to be found in the Monte Rosa region, maybe in the Gorner Valley. It did not have anything to do with the Findeltriftje above Zermatt, where in recent years the term ‘lost valley’ has become quite popular. Historically speaking, it is to assume that the Gorner Valley was free of ice during the Medieval Warm Period (900 to 1,200 – the exact period is disputed) and consisted of a large lake surrounded by forests and fertile ground. Proof of this lies not only in Valais legends, but also in the findings of modern glaciology, for measurements have shown that the glacial soil beneath the Monte Rosa Hut is deeper than further out, close to the end of the terminus. If the ice were to melt today, we would again see the formation of a lake. Or, maybe, it was just wishful thinking by the Walser, hoping that there be a paradise somewhere out there where life would be 8 The conquest of the Zermatt Mountains
Monte Rosa and Lyskamm with Gorner Glacier around 1900. At the time, glaciers were significantly larger. easier. Such a legend actually exists on the Zermatt side. Here, as well, people dreamed of a paradise beyond the mountains. That is probably the reason why, in 1778, a group of Walser tried to reach the highest summit possible out of the Monte Rosa group. The goal of their expedition was to find that ‘lost valley’ beyond the Lysjoch pass. They started out in Gressoney and ascended to the Monte Rosa. It is not known how they moved across the glacier, which bore numerous rather dangerous crevasses. They reached the Entdeckungsfels (‘discovery rock’, 4,366m, at the foot of the Lyskamm), from which they were able to see the Zermatt side. When they realised that they had still more glaciers and mountains ahead of them, they gave up their endeavour. The conquest of the Zermatt Mountains 9
Page 1: The Matterhorn and its mountain gui
Page 4 and 5: © 2015, Hermann Biner, Zermatt Pub
Page 7: Preface The Matterhorn - mystical,
Page 11 and 12: On August 13 of 1792, natural scien
Page 13 and 14: Zermatt and the Matterhorn around 1
Page 15 and 16: ·· Johann Zumtaugwald (first asce
Page 17 and 18: Weisshorn from the north. Today sti
Page 19 and 20: First ascents between 1850 and 1865
Page 21 and 22: Background on the first ascent of t
Page 23 and 24: Lyskamm - one of the most dangerous
Page 25 and 26: Between 1850 and 1865, Zermatt moun
Page 27 and 28: Lord Francis Douglas was guided up
Page 29 and 30: Aiguille Verte. Together with the M
Page 31 and 32: The Matterhorn from the Zermatt sid
Page 33 and 34: After the second ascent of the Aigu
Page 35 and 36: Peter Taugwalder described Whymper
Page 37 and 38: The fall at the Matterhorn. This is
Page 39 and 40: The fall site on the Matterhorn. Fa
Page 41 and 42: The Matterhorn Museum in Zermatt ha
Page 43 and 44: The faulty rope at the Matterhorn M
Page 45 and 46: Interrogating Peter Taugwalder Seni
Page 47 and 48: 30. Please, tell us more about the
Page 49 and 50: 58. Was your son recruited as a gui
Page 51 and 52: The account of Peter Taugwalder Jun
Page 53 and 54: Obergabelhorn south face. Only in 1
Page 55 and 56: The summit of the Matterhorn. Stand
Page 57: of the things we were saying? He di

Biner_Leseprobe

Create successful ePaper yourself

Delete template?

Save as template?