Compiled Embroidery Skill Articles

Conquer Lettering | Printwear
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2 of 3 10/28/2016 12:13 AM
Navigating small lettering
Small lettering is the most common embroidery challenge. There are countless articles on the subject as well as
many differing opinions. As with most problems, the best solution is to avoid the problem altogether.
Understanding the limitations of small lettering solves about 60 percent of issues.
The greatest problem with small lettering has nothing to do with height. Rather, the problem is that the column
width is too thin for a needle to form a proper stitch. If sewing with a 75/11 needle, each needle penetration
creates a hole with a diameter of 0.75 mm or a radius of 0.375 mm. For a stitch that measures 1 mm in length,
the sewing process creates two holes with a radius of 0.375 mm each, leaving only 0.25 mm of fabric untouched
between the outer boundaries of the holes. That’s not much to work with.
Of course, the hole closes again around the thread after withdrawing the needle, but the fabric is potentially
weaker. In this situation, if the stitch length were 0.8 mm instead of 1 mm, you’d likely sew holes rather than
laying down stitches.
When a customer wants too many characters in a given area, the letters are compressed, further compounding
the problem of the column width. Generalized values can assist in determining the feasibility of text within a
certain area. For example, in a 4" area, try following this guide based on a normal thickness font:
1" lettering, eight characters
3/4" lettering, 11 characters
1/2" lettering, 17 characters
1/4" lettering, 22 characters
3/16" lettering, 30 characters
This guide is not absolute, but it’s a good way to gauge if text will fit within a certain area. The more characters
added to the values provided, the greater the chance of problems arising. In many cases, problems with small
lettering are self-inflicted. Our desire to please the customer overpowers common sense, and we can’t say no. If
the embroidery won’t sew properly, it’s the decorator’s responsibility to educate the customer and offer
alternatives.
Another tip for success with small lettering is to use more traditional typestyles of medium thickness.
Characters with slender columns are too thin to sew, and thick columns often close the center of letters.