Compiled Embroidery Skill Articles

10/28/2016 Embroidery Thread Tensions Embroidery Article
To be honest, more sewing tension problems are caused by the bobbin than the upper thread. However , since the upper thread is
easier to access, more time is spent adjusting it, even though it may not be the culprit. So always pay close attention to the bobbin,
even though it’s generally “out of sight, out of mind.”
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Once you have made basic adjustments to the upper and lower tension, you need to verify that both upper and lower tensions are
balanced. There is a relatively simple test that will allow you to visually assess the state of the tension. Most commonly referred to
as the “thirds” test, there are several slight variations of the process, but they all have the same goal: to verify the tension is
balanced between upper and lower threads.
First, create a design file for sewing the letter I in a 1” tall satin block font. The concept is to have the machine sew a series of satin
stitches in virtually every direction plus in a curve. Sew this on a piece of test fabric – remembering that the fabric itself can af fect the
tension.
Upon completion, examine the backside of the embroidery . You should see three parallel sections of thread, from left to right
across each column as follows – Upper/Bobbin/Upper – in even thirds. (Thus the name “thirds” test.) (Left image)
If there is more upper thread visible than bobbin thread, then the upper thread tension is too loose, or the lower thread tension is
too tight. (Center image)
If there is more lower thread visible than upper thread, then the upper thread tension is too tight, or the lower thread tension is too
loose. (Right image)
A more precise test is to sew the word FOX in 1 inch, all capital, satin block. This will force the machine to sew satin stitches in
virtually all directions including a curve.
Now that you are fully armed with the knowledge to make accurate thread tension adjustments, backed up by a test (the “thirds”
test) to verify balance, you are ready to take on the world, confident in your ability to ensure picture perfect embroidery on each and
every job. Well, don’t get too comfortable…
You see, the adjustments and tests are all just guidelines to help you get within the ballpark of high quality stitching. But like many
of the so­called rules in this industry , the tension­setting processes are not guarantees set in stone. Ultimately , it’s the quality of the
stitching that determines whether the tension settings are correct or not. In fact, you can become obsessed with trying to balance
tensions to the point that it’ s counterproductive. Let me show you what I mean…
How do you identify embroiderers in a retail store that sells embroidered apparel? They are the ones looking at the backside of the
garment! Of course they are trying to determine whether the company that did the embroidery had balanced tensions in order to
judge whether they produce the same high quality work as themselves. These are also the same people who spend hours trying to
get an equal “thirds” proportion on the backside of their own designs, without ever sewing the first garment. Unfortunately , in the
quest for perfect thread balance, they have blinded themselves to the reality of thread tension: The front is always more important
than the back!
The majority of the time, if the “thirds” test shows good balance, the resulting embroidery will be of high quality . But there are times
when the back will not be balanced, yet the front will still be nearly perfect. As long as the backside shows proof of bobbin pickup
and no bird’ s nests or looping, it’ s ok. In other words, don’t try to fix something that isn’t broken. If the front is good, don’t discount it
because the backside doesn’t have a perfect thirds balance.
To sum it all up, use the “thirds” test to get a baseline tension setting. Then adjust as needed to achieve the best possible stitch
quality on the FRONT of the embroidery, while verifying that the back of the embroidery doesn’t have any flaws that could cause the
stitches to work themselves loose over time or the machine to jam up during sewing. Good luck!
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