Chef and owner Rafael Solorzano at Salsa Verdes. Photo by Brad Jacobson (CivicCouch.com) Rafael’s second act by Richard Foss Upscale Mexican restaurants in Los Angeles often serve a curiously distorted cuisine. We have talented chefs who know Mexican traditions because they grew up with them, and they have better produce and meat than is generally available south of the border. Unfortunately their audience is used to a bland, homogenized version of the cooking of only one part of the country, comprising the northwestern states and Baja peninsula. A leading local chef discovered this problem the hard way and relaunched his restaurant as a consequence. Rafael Solorzano was ambitious when he opened Alfredo Garcia’s in Palos Verdes, serving a menu with numerous items from Yucatan and the southern regions. The restaurant was a critical success, but confused locals who didn’t recognize most of the items on the menu. Reached by phone for an interview Solorzano said that he now recognizes that he might have tried to do too much too soon. “<strong>People</strong> like things that are familiar to them. I introduced so many things people here didn’t know, like tamalitos, chiles nogada, and cochinita pibil, all at once. <strong>People</strong> seemed to like that there was a choice, but that was not what they actually ordered. They really liked the mole and we sold that a lot, but not the birria (a spicy stew made with goat meat). When I talked to people they said they wanted things that were more fresh and healthy. They want a very good version of things they already know.” Solorzano knew what they liked, and how to present it with style. He had previously cooked at the LA Country Club and other prestigious venues. He developed a new menu centered on Northern Mexican specialties and rebranded the place as Salsa Verdes (not, he explained, because they specialize in green sauces, but because he makes salsa and they’re in Palos Verdes). There has been a fallback to old favorites, though they’re made with uncommon skill and an emphasis on light, gently sharp flavors. In the tortilla soup this was expressed with a dash of lime juice while in a daily special of prawn ceviche tostadas, the same effect was achieved with mango and watermelon. Those tostadas were the hit of our meal and deserve a place on the menu. The mix of marinated seafood, onion, and cilantro with fruit was refreshing and delicious. Tomatillos have a different kind of fruity tartness, and lent some zing to a moderately spicy green sauce that we enjoyed over crab enchiladas. Crab is a sufficiently delicate meat that is often overwhelmed by spicy sauces, but this one was a partner in the flavors and enhanced without dominating. The other mains I have tried are chicken enchiladas in mole sauce and sea bass Veracruz style, topped with a vegetable medley of sautéed bell peppers, zucchini, capers, onion, and green olives. The rich sauce reminded me of a French ratatouille, and it goes just as well with grilled fish with just a little char on the exterior. Cilantro rice and black beans completed the plate for a Salsa Verdes’ chef is passionate about bringing the best of his native cuisine to the <strong>Peninsula</strong> substantial meal. The chicken enchiladas in thick, rich mole sauce are a carry-over from the previous menu, and it’s easy to see why they made the cut. The Puebla-style sauce made with chocolate, chili peppers, nuts, and spices has a deep, complex flavor and is one of the treasures of Mexican cooking. Chef Rafael makes it very well. The two big enchiladas on the plate are garnished with queso fresco and red onion and there are dabs of pico de gallo and chopped radish on the plate, but it’s all about the sauce and I used the last of my corn chips to get every bit of it. I have only tried one of the desserts, an unusual dulce de leche cake crusted with caramel, served atop a crisp cinnamon tortilla chip, and garnished with berries. It was a bit sweet for my tastes, but all Mexican desserts tend to be off the scale for my palate. My wife, who has a greater tolerance for sweets than I do, thought it was delightful. Salsa Verdes is successful on its own terms. This is the type of Mexican restaurant the <strong>Peninsula</strong> will support, with assured cooking of standards and just a little exploration into more arcane traditions. It’s a solid second act from a chef who is passionate about bringing the best of his native cuisine to the <strong>Peninsula</strong>. Salsa Verdes is at 2325 Palos Verdes Drive West. Open Tues. - Sat 11 a.m. - 9:30 p.m., Sun. 1 – 9 p.m. Closed Mon. Parking lot below, elevator access, wheelchair okay. Beer, wine, and agave wine margaritas served. Some vegetarian items. Menu at SalsaVerdes.com, phone (424) 206-9456. PEN 44 <strong>Peninsula</strong> • <strong>Feb</strong>ruary <strong>2017</strong>
NOW SERVING YOU IN 2 LOCATIONS! With the great goodness of Mama in Rolling Hills Estates, we now offer our Cafe’ - a smaller version in Malaga Cove Plaza! Specializing in Mama’s Spaghetti & Meatballs with our newly inspired flatbreads, salads and more! Join us for Lunch & Dinner Mon-Sat. • Outdoor Patio Seating • Lots of Free Parking 36 Malaga Cove Plaza Palos Verdes Estates (310) 375-6767 815 Deep Valley Drive Rolling Hills Estates (310) 377-5757 www.mamaterano.com <strong>Feb</strong>ruary <strong>2017</strong> • <strong>Peninsula</strong> 45
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