Burgundian Noblemen's Underclothes c1445-1475

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Arguments for a gusseted neckline There is persuasive visual evidence for a shirt with a gusseted neckline in Italy during this period; however, most of the Burgundian portraits that show the characteristic foldover are after 1475. This construction could provide the flat expanse across the collarbones (beneath the top lacing) without slipping down. Figure 5.33 Master Lorenzo Petrucci’s construction diagram for an Italian camicia Figure 5.36 1480 Hans Memling, Portrait of a Man with a Roman Coin Figure 5.34 1452-66 Italy. Piero della Francesca, Discovery of the True Cross (detail) Figure 5.37 1480 Hans Memling, Portrait of a man with a Letter Figure 5.35 1475 Italy. Antonello da Messina, Portrait of a Man Figure 5.38 Paris, muse du petit palais L Dut 456 fol18v, Bourgogne This may be showing a neckline with a slit or it may be showing the gusset folded over. 14
Informal wear/Middle Layer Hose/Hosen Hose is the term I use for leggings whose legs are sewn together. I use the term hosen to indicate leggings whose legs are separate, and joined only by attaching the codpiece. Sometimes it’s hard to tell which version is being worn in the illustrations, if I cannot tell I default to using the term hose to describe the leggings.. Figure 6.1 1465 Loyset Liédet’s Renaud de Montauban , “the Marriage of Renaut de Montauban and Clarisse” Figure 6.2 1465 Loyset Liédet’s Renaud de Montauban Figure 6.3 1470-71 Hans Memling, Scenes from the Passion of Christ (detail) Figure 6.4 Ca. 1465-70 Burges. Master of the Harley Froissart, Jean Foissart’s Chroniques. 15
Page 1 and 2: Burgundian Noblemen’s Underclothe
Page 3 and 4: The Fashionable Silhouette Figure 2
Page 5 and 6: worn outside. Since buildings did n
Page 7 and 8: *Note, half of these pictures are n
Page 9 and 10: Figure 5.8 Ca. 1454 Master of the P
Page 11 and 12: Again, let’s start with the obvio
Page 13: Arguments for the high round neckli
Page 17 and 18: Figure 6.11 1474-79 Hans Memling, A
Page 19 and 20: http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~mar
Page 21 and 22: Figure 6.30 Late 15th-early 16th ce
Page 23 and 24: Construction-wise, if you have a se
Page 25 and 26: Figure 6.47 Mid-15th century, Franc
Page 27 and 28: Figure 7.6 Figure 7.7 Ca. 1473-5 Di
Page 29 and 30: etween the neck tie and the waist t
Page 31 and 32: 9. Most illustrations obscure the b
Page 33 and 34: Figure 7.26 late 1440s-late 1460s L
Page 35 and 36: Figure 7.41 1465 Loyset Liédet, Be
Page 37 and 38: Figures 47-56 above have no visible
Page 39 and 40: Figure 7.70 Image Copyright © I. M
Page 41 and 42: Bibliography Arnold, Janet Patterns
Page 43 and 44: Figure 4.1: I’ve lost the source
Page 45 and 46: Figure 6.41: Voronova 169. Figure 6

Burgundian Noblemen's Underclothes c1445-1475

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