Burgundian Noblemen's Underclothes c1445-1475

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Figure 6.45 Fouquet miniature showing the trial of the duc d'Alencon Figure 6.46 1453-55 Rogier Van Der Weyden, St. John Alterpiece Notice the seam allowance showing at the center back of the hosen on the right. There are some lovely pictures from the early 1500s showing the butt seams for joined hose, but I have found none from the period we’re discussing. As far as lining goes, figures 46-48 clearly show that at least the top part of the hosen was lined. However, figures 46 and 49 show cases where the top part of the hose was not lined. There is an Italian picture that shows the lining only being at the top of the hose (figure 51) but I have not found an equivalent picture for northern Europe. 24
Figure 6.47 Mid-15th century, France. Le Livre des Simples Medecines Figure 6.50 Late 15th-early 16th century, France. Book of Simple Medicine F140r Figure 6.48 1452-60 Jean Fouquet’s Hours of Etienne Chevalier. “The Martyrdom of St Apollonia” Figure 6.51 1455 Italy. Piero della Francesca, Burial of the Holy Wood Figure 6.49 1470-71 Hans Memling, Scenes from the Passion of Christ (detail) In general, I recommend Master Emrys Eustace, hight Broom’s work for a much more comprehensive look at constructing hose then I have done: http://www.greydragon.org/library/underwear3.html 25
Page 1 and 2: Burgundian Noblemen’s Underclothe
Page 3 and 4: The Fashionable Silhouette Figure 2
Page 5 and 6: worn outside. Since buildings did n
Page 7 and 8: *Note, half of these pictures are n
Page 9 and 10: Figure 5.8 Ca. 1454 Master of the P
Page 11 and 12: Again, let’s start with the obvio
Page 13 and 14: Arguments for the high round neckli
Page 15 and 16: Informal wear/Middle Layer Hose/Hos
Page 17 and 18: Figure 6.11 1474-79 Hans Memling, A
Page 19 and 20: http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~mar
Page 21 and 22: Figure 6.30 Late 15th-early 16th ce
Page 23: Construction-wise, if you have a se
Page 27 and 28: Figure 7.6 Figure 7.7 Ca. 1473-5 Di
Page 29 and 30: etween the neck tie and the waist t
Page 31 and 32: 9. Most illustrations obscure the b
Page 33 and 34: Figure 7.26 late 1440s-late 1460s L
Page 35 and 36: Figure 7.41 1465 Loyset Liédet, Be
Page 37 and 38: Figures 47-56 above have no visible
Page 39 and 40: Figure 7.70 Image Copyright © I. M
Page 41 and 42: Bibliography Arnold, Janet Patterns
Page 43 and 44: Figure 4.1: I’ve lost the source
Page 45 and 46: Figure 6.41: Voronova 169. Figure 6

Burgundian Noblemen's Underclothes c1445-1475

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