Burgundian Noblemen's Underclothes c1445-1475

Figure 7.41
1465 Loyset Liédet, Bertha
Duchess of Burgundy building a
church
Figure 7.44
1465 Loyset Liédet, Bertha
Duchess of Burgundy building a
church
Figure 7.42
1470 Loyset Liédet, Vasco de
Lucena Presents Book to Charles
the Bold of Burgundy
Figure 7.45
late 1440s-late 1460s Louis of
Savoy, from a statuette on the
tomb of Louis de Mâle
Figure 7.43
1465 Loyset Liédet’s Renaud de
Montauban , “The Marriage of
Renaut de Montauban and
Clarisse”
Figure 7.46
pre-1466 Wavrin Master's
cartoons for L'histoire de Girart
de Nevers
Some observations:
1. The sleeve puff never comes lower then mid-bicep, and tends to be a bit higher.
2. The puff doesn’t stand up much, mostly is stands out, to the side of the arm, its
aim is to give width rather then height. (Be careful about this when stuffing your
puffs, it’s very easy to get off.)
3. In figures 38-40 the shape of the puff around the arm is not evenly distributed – it
arches around the arm. In figures 41-46 the puff does appear to be gathered
evenly around the arm.
4. How full/stuffed the puff is varies considerably.
Sleeve Closures
All of the sleeves in the pictures above are very tight from the wrist to the uppers arm.
So, how are the sleeves fastened to achieve this? I see two options:
� A discreet fastening method at the wrist.
� A slit up the back of the arm held closed by decorative lacing.
Figure 7.47
Ca. 1450 Hours of the Duchess of
Bourgogne, youths playing hockey
Figure 7.48
1457 King Rene's Book of Love
Folio 51v
Figure 7.49
1465 Loyset Liédet’s Renaud de
Montauban
35