Burgundian Noblemen's Underclothes c1445-1475

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Figure 6.37 1465 Loyset Liédet’s Renaud de Montauban , “the Marriage of Renaut de Montauban and Clarisse” Figure 6.40 late 15th century Egerton MS 2019f5 Book of Hours Is this a picture of hose with spurs attached? Figure 6.38 Paris, muse du petit palais L Dut 456 fol18v, Bourgogne Figure 6.41 Late 15th - Early 16th century. Book of Simple Medicine F109r “Aloe and 2 Kinds of Celery” Figure 6.42 1473 Paris, Maitre Francois, St Augustine's City of God (Left) Detail of a laborer’s foot. (Right) Detail of nobles foot. Figure 6.39 Reconstruction de Troie Français 59 , Fol. 238 Raoul Lefèvre, Histoires de Troyes, Belgique, XVe siècle Figure 6.43 Alexandre malade Cote : Français 47 , Fol. 46v Quinte-Curce, Histoire d'Alexandre le Grand (traduction de Vasque de Lucène), Belgique, Flandre, XVe siècle * the assumption in all these pictures is that if the feet match the legs, then the feet are part of the hose; this may not be accurate, especially with the black hose (as the most common color for shoes seems to be black). The foot shape seems to vary: figures 33-37 have extremely pointy toes. Figures 38 and 39 have mildly pointed toes and figures 41 & 43 have blunt, feet-shaped toes. Not enough of these pictures have specific dates attached to be sure, but it is my belief that the shape of the toes (on the noblemen) varies over time – that they start out in the 1450s being very pointed and by the end of the century have become blunt. Regardless, working men’s feet and shoes tend to be noticeably blunter then noblemen’s feet (figure 42). 22
Construction-wise, if you have a separate sole for the hose, it’s very easy to do rounded or “blunt” toes. If you use the more common (in the extant hose fragments) leg-stirrup piece with a second piece for the toes it’s very easy to get pointy toes. (See figure 44 below.) Using this construction it’s actually very difficult to get non-pointy toes. Figure 6.44 Image Copyright © I. Marc Carlson 1998 An example of Nockert Hose Type 4: "Short hose with a strap. This hose is cut in one piece with a seam at the back, and an opening for the foot at the bottom. The two side pieces thus formed at the bottom were sewn together to make a strap beneath the foot." 3 7. Where are the seams and how are the hose constructed? There is no pictorial evidence for how the foot of the hose were constructed. There are occasional pictures that show center back leg seams: 3 I. Marc Carlson, http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/cloth/hstype4.html [Nov. 7, 2010] 23
Page 1 and 2: Burgundian Noblemen’s Underclothe
Page 3 and 4: The Fashionable Silhouette Figure 2
Page 5 and 6: worn outside. Since buildings did n
Page 7 and 8: *Note, half of these pictures are n
Page 9 and 10: Figure 5.8 Ca. 1454 Master of the P
Page 11 and 12: Again, let’s start with the obvio
Page 13 and 14: Arguments for the high round neckli
Page 15 and 16: Informal wear/Middle Layer Hose/Hos
Page 17 and 18: Figure 6.11 1474-79 Hans Memling, A
Page 19 and 20: http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~mar
Page 21: Figure 6.30 Late 15th-early 16th ce
Page 25 and 26: Figure 6.47 Mid-15th century, Franc
Page 27 and 28: Figure 7.6 Figure 7.7 Ca. 1473-5 Di
Page 29 and 30: etween the neck tie and the waist t
Page 31 and 32: 9. Most illustrations obscure the b
Page 33 and 34: Figure 7.26 late 1440s-late 1460s L
Page 35 and 36: Figure 7.41 1465 Loyset Liédet, Be
Page 37 and 38: Figures 47-56 above have no visible
Page 39 and 40: Figure 7.70 Image Copyright © I. M
Page 41 and 42: Bibliography Arnold, Janet Patterns
Page 43 and 44: Figure 4.1: I’ve lost the source
Page 45 and 46: Figure 6.41: Voronova 169. Figure 6

Burgundian Noblemen's Underclothes c1445-1475

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