Burgundian Noblemen's Underclothes c1445-1475

Burgundian Noblemen’s Underclothes c1445-1475 ........................................................... 1
Overview ......................................................................................................................... 2
The Fashionable Silhouette ......................................................................................... 3
Layers and Fashion Terms .......................................................................................... 4
Underwear ....................................................................................................................... 6
Underpants .................................................................................................................. 6
Shirt ............................................................................................................................. 8
Informal wear/Middle Layer ......................................................................................... 15
Hose/Hosen ............................................................................................................... 15
Doublet ...................................................................................................................... 26
Bibliography ................................................................................................................. 41
Table of Illustrations ..................................................................................................... 42
Overview
Figure 1.1 North-Western Europe in 1475
The dark gray areas show the possessions of the Dukes of Burgundy in 1475 under Charles the Bold. In
1475 the Burgundian territories were at their greatest extent. With the death of Charles in 1477 the
Duchy of Burgundy itself passed to France and the remaining territories to the Holy Roman Empire. 1
The style I’m analyzing is generally called Burgundian, although most accurately it is
termed a Franco-Flemish style as it is seen throughout France and the Burgundian
territories (including Flanders). The term Burgundian is usually applied because the
style’s popularity roughly coincides with the brief dominance of the court of Burgundy.
Elements of the Burgundian style appear in English fashion, but there are enough quirks
to the English fashions that I have not included English examples in this study.
1 Dunkerton et al. 15
2