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Burgundian Noblemen's Underclothes c1445-1475

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Figure 7.65<br />

1460-65 Livres des Tournois du roi<br />

Rene, king-at-arms presenting a<br />

sword to the Duke of Bourbon<br />

Figure 7.68<br />

Ca. 1460 from Chronique a brégée<br />

des empereurs<br />

Figure 7.66<br />

Mid-fifteenth century. Roman de<br />

la Violette. Paris, Bib. Nat. ms fr.<br />

24376 f. 5,8.<br />

Figure 7.69<br />

late 1440s-late 1460s Louis of<br />

Savoy, from a statuette on the<br />

tomb of Louis de Mâle<br />

Figure 7.67<br />

Ca. 1465-70 Burges. Master<br />

of the Harley Froissart, Jean<br />

Foissart’s Chroniques.<br />

Most of the time (when the full sleeve is visible) the slit goes from the wrist nearly to the<br />

sleeve puff (figures 62-69). In figures 65 the slit seems to disappear just above the elbow.<br />

In all cases except 68 the slit appears narrow, as if a seam were left open, rather then a<br />

portion of the sleeve that has been removed. Because of the prevalence of the slit, I<br />

conjecture that there is a seam running up the outer arm, as there is in the extant 14 th<br />

century Charles of Blois' pourpoint (figure 70).<br />

There are many possible ways to construct the tight portion of the sleeve; you could use<br />

the Charles of Blois’ multi-piece sleeve as a guide:<br />

38

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